Addition of a electronic fuel pump

[356 coupe]

For those of us who don't drive our cars on a daily bases, I have to say the the addition of an electronic fuel pump, has made a big difference.



I took my 356 out for a drive today. I can't tell you how much easier it is to start up. I also wanted to mention what a great job Jack Staggs and Kerry of Staggs Auto Repair did in dialing in my car the last time I had it serviced there. It purrs like a kitten. It runs fantastic and just plain awesome. We are very fortunate to have great Mechanics here in So Ca for our little cars! Have a great weekend!

[bbspdstr]

From the other side of the country:

An electric fuel pump serves a dual usage. One is priming dry carbs without wasting battery (especially if it's still a 6v 356) and secondly, being the one that can get you home if the 50+ year old mechanical pump fails.

It's common to discreetly install a momentary switch under the dash so it cannot be forgotten and left on and always supply electrons via the #15 or #54 outlets on the ignition switch as an added safeguard, along with an inline fuse.

It's good make sure the pump can be drawn through as well as push through the mechanical one on the engine. I try to get the lowest pressure available, but 6v versions are getting more difficult to source at all, so short intervals can fill the carb bowls if needed for actual driving.

The best thing for the car, the carbs and the owner is to drive the 356 more regularly than the carb bowls can vent out, but still use fuel stabilizer if you are not going through a tankful in 6 months.

It's also been found that the ethanol most parts of the country demand be used can leave a stubborn film when dry that can clog the smaller orifices (orifi?). When reactivated with more fuel, accelerator pump valves and jets, idle jets, needle-and-seat inlet valves can all be affected.

I cleaned that gunk out of some idle jets in split-shaft Solexes a couple of months ago and the running was fine. Now, after sitting for a couple of months, it's back to stumbling in the range of the accelerator/transition jetting or nozzles. Even the electric pump to fill the empty bowels can't help that as much as regular running, even a trip around the block.....or to visit Jack and Kerry....just get the thing up to operating temperature every couple of weeks or more if possible.

-Bruce

[356 coupe]

Hi Bruce:
You're absolutely correct. The best thing to do is to drive your car regularly and keep the gas from drying up in the carbs.

I resisted installing a electronic fuel pump for years on my 6 volt 356. I try and drive my car at least once a week, but I also live out in the desert. It's been so darn HOT. Unfortunately on this side of the country we have also have to deal with crappy gas so adding fuel stabilizer is a must.

I didn't want the priming pump in the engine bay. I bought the "Kit" from Ed Rutherford at Klasse356.com who put the kit together for me. It contained every thing I needed for the installation including great instructions. I didn't want the pump in the floorboard or the engine bay. I had the pump mounted on top of the right diagonal brace since there is already a hole there for the bracket. Then they drilled a hole for the ground wire on the same channel and attach with a bolt and ring terminal. The hot wire of the pump is run thru the brake light switch wire grommet above the master cylinder, following those wires up to the steering column and under the dash.

A fellow 356'r recommended i use an original sunroof switch as my primer switch. The hot lead comes from the ignition switch. We picked up one of the connections next to the radio wire as it is only hot when the ignition is in the on position. We installed a fuse holder on the other wire from the switch (the one leading back to the pump). It took a 10 amp fuse.

If you do use the sun roof switch, it just snaps into the rectangular hole under the dash to the left of the steering column. You can pig-tail the wire from two terminals to a single wire to the fuse so the pump can be activated either by pressing the switch to the right or left (open or close) mode of the switch. It's an 1.5 hour job. For those concerned with the authenticity of the appearance it's all reversible and can be removed as easily as it was installed. Using an original sunroof switch gave it the original touch. There's also times that I don't even use it to prime the carburetors. Hopefully I'll never need to use it as a back up to my fuel pump.

[JTR70]

Sounds like the only way to go!


Here's a beautifully executed dual pump system that Ashley Page did on his coupe in case you missed seeing it:
http://www.abcgt.com/forum/6-Hot-Rod--Modified-356/8593-Some-light-weight-mods-to-my-356-restoration.html?limit=6&start=6

[Jim Neil]

I never got around to installing it, but I got a dual switch from Zims - one way it is spring loaded and only sends power while you hold it down, the other way it stays on.
http://www.allzim.com/store/switch-three-position-for-electric-fuel-pump.html?category_id=663

[Steve]

Guys:
At one time my C had fog lights and the switch is still there. It makes a great switch for the electric fuel pump. It is stock, and lights up whenever the fuel pump is on, so you never forget.