Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

heater valve

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • heater valve

    I would like to disassemble my heater valves, 58 356. after removing all of the undercoating one of them has a small thumb tack sized hole were the sound deadening material is. looks like its rusting from the inside out. has anyone done this before? I don't want to just start drilling spot welds and not get it apart. I thought about removing the end opposite the flap but i'm wondering if the inner tube is attached on the inside
    thanks Jay D.

  • #2
    Don't be intimidated by those Jay. They could not be simpler and really amount to just a "muffler can". If you drill those tiny spot welds along the lip of each cap they come right off. The only critical detail is that you remount them in exactly the same index position otherwise you'll have all sorts of alignment issues for clearance and for the control linkage. You also have to make sure the spring-loaded flapper door is engaged properly before you reweld that end-cap.
    Justin Rio

    Comment


    • #3
      Get one of those trick blunt tip drill bits so you dont drill all the way through both layers. Its thin material. While the ends are off, weld the flap hinge tabs on better. The one little spot weld on each one sometimes break loose, and you will have to open it again to repair it.
      Jack (analog man from the stone age)

      Comment


      • #4
        thanks for the pointers ! yea i'll have to admit they did intimidate me a little i'm going to try and get one apart this weekend.
        Jay D.

        Comment


        • #5
          Well I said the heck with cutting the grass tonight and started on the heater valves. its not as easy is I had hoped, I drilled the spot welds on the flapper end and it came off fairly easy. now the other end not so good. I drilled the spot welds around the mid section of the canister and don't see any welds at the end cap. anyway no come a outie! am I missing something ? or is it rust holding the center section tight, I've got it soaking now for a couple hours. I think I'll go cut the grass now
          Jay D.

          Comment


          • #6
            Its been a while since I've looked at one. If you're still stuck I'll dig mine out and have a look. Justin
            Justin Rio

            Comment


            • #7
              Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN0400.JPG
Views:	98
Size:	78.3 KB
ID:	45869

              Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN0399.JPG
Views:	98
Size:	76.1 KB
ID:	45870
              somewhat crude but its apart what would one use for the packing? it looks just like the packing I use in dune quad silencer.

              Jay D.

              Comment


              • #8
                Congratulation, Not so scary now I'll bet. Yes, pack it with fiberglass insulation just like you would on a rebuildable exhaust silencer.
                Justin Rio

                Comment


                • #9
                  I'm not sure that I would want fiberglass detritus blowing in to the interior. Not sure what to recommend. Probably not asbestos...
                  Jack (analog man from the stone age)

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Good point Jack. He could wrap fine screen around the perforated tube to filter and hold any loose fibers. But yes, other than that I don't what you would use. Is that packing originally asbestos?
                    Justin Rio

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Perhaps some fire retardant material for a couch or hvac?
                      Jack (analog man from the stone age)

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        yes I think you guys are absolutely right about the fiberglass particles blowing into the cab. also to wrap the core I think would work. i'm going to stop at my atv parts supplier and see what their packing material is made of. I also agree what Jack implied there has to be other products out there that would work, i'm going to do some research. now to derust patch the holes and epoxy paint.
                        surprisingly they are in good condition, other than were water has settled at the lower part. there is a drain hole but probably covered with undercoat. I probably did this to myself, I pressure washed the bottom and inside floor about 15 years ago. the heater valves probably got water in them and never completely dried out for years.
                        Jay D.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by JTR70" post=20400
                          Good point Jack. He could wrap fine screen around the perforated tube to filter and hold any loose fibers. But yes, other than that I don't what you would use. Is that packing originally asbestos?
                          Good question on the asbestos I work for a tug boat co. and we deal with asbestos at times. i'll see if I can get it checked. I personally don't think that in that situation it would be harmful. and there are all kinds of asbestos some harmful some not so harmful. and there are people think that if you touch it your going to die within 2 days. ha ha, if it is asbestos half the people with 356s will be ripping there heater valves out.
                          Jay D.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            There is a lot of overreaction these days to material considered to be hazardous. Most things taken in moderation won't kill you. Keep us posted on any alternative packing you might come across; with today's technology I have to believe that there is some space age material you can get your hands on to do this job safely.
                            Justin Rio

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X