help need for 911 oil tank installation in T5 with cooler in front wheel well

[jetdog]

Has anyone had any experience modifying the tank to fit in the right rear corner between the tail light and the right tire? I know it has been done but there is nothing online regarding this task.
I have gone as far as adding the first important dent in the tank to get it to help move it aft but realize it will need more. I need to get it to move another 2 1/2 inches to be safely tucked in before adding a gravel guard and call it completed.
Any ideas, and does anyone know of someone who has successfully installed one of these tanks as well as the cooler in the right front wheel well?
I have the cooler roughed in and angled with the bottom of it resting on the headlight brace, hoping to hear from anyone who has had success with this, i will be most appreciative!
Thank you for reading.
Pete
'60 T5 Outlaw coupe

[JTR70]

Hey Pete, I'll ask Dean which tank they run back there but I would tend to think its the early 901 version. Do you know what year 911 the tank you're trying to use is from? As for a front oil cooler:
I'm running the smallest Setrab cooler that they offer. The mount I built for it quickly unbolts without modification to the brace or bucket.

This is the early twin cooler set up. The later setrab units are much more efficient than this early stuff so the one should perform the job of two.
No need for all of that complication above so I just went straight across the front. BTW: after I built all of this Dean said that the early 911 trombone tubular loop would have been enough to cool the oil. That would have been far easier and less complicated than mounting this cooler. Anyway, I'll see what oil tank they fit in there. Justin

[jetdog]

Hi Justin,
Thank you for reaching out on this thinly covered subject. I've been back in contact with Dean recently and he also mentioned the trombone cooler. I did send a photo of the one I have and said it should work fine. The 911 oil tank was purchased about 6 years back and Dean then said it would be the one for the task. It was for 3.0 to 3.2 engines and made of copper, easily reshaped/dented to fit into the required position. One aha moment recently gave birth to using canned insulating foam to cast a model of the tank. Then cast a mould of the space for the tank, then reference that foam shape to adjust the foam tank to fit. Once happy with the results slowly introduce a mallet to the real deal. The goal according to Dean is to get the tank far enough into the fender so that it does not show when looking straight into the right real wheel well. At this point it sticks out almost 2 inches, so I have a way to go yet.
Hoping to find someone who has recently accomplished this task that can shed some good light on this.
Thanks again Justin for your response with offer to speak to Dean.

[jetdog]

Now that I've looked at your cooler set up I remember looking into Setrab but ended up going for the Elephant Racing cooler as recommended by Dean. Yours does look complicated, "as long as it works" is always the thought. Thanks for posting the photos!

[Jbrooks]

I have never done a a 911 tank in the fender, buy I have made conformal tanks. I use a large plastic zip lock bag and canned spray insulation foam. Put a bag about the size you think the tank will be. Tape the ends shut except for a small hole for the foam tube. Then stuff the bag up into the corner. As you put the foam then softly press the bag up into the volume. The foam will expand and the bag will form into empty space. I have used trash bags and other plastic sacks. You need to make a plywood holder to stop the expansion past the outside of where you want the tank to fit, but its gives you a positive to see there the conforming parts of the tank need to go.

Just stuff the bag into the space, get the stop dam in place then spray the form into a sealed end of the bag. You can use tape to form dam parts before the spray foam also. This stuff takes 20-30 minutes to get hard and is super sticky if it gets on stuff, but peels free when dry. You can also pull a negative form off the positive foamed bag , Then use that to fit the new tank. You can sand or carve the foam after pulling off the outer bag to get super conforming molds. its messy and easy

[jetdog]

I really appreciate your experience with this concept of positive and negative moulding. I had one of those middle of the night wake-ups trying to figure how to make this idea work and now see it clearly with your hands on experience. Keeping in control of that expanding foam is key!
I once tried insulating an American Standard bathtub on a concrete floor, I used too many cans as it turned out,....it lifted the tub right off the floor and wall, woops!! Definitely don't want to repeat that event with my 61 year old Reutter bathtub.
Thank you for your inspiring solution. I will let you know how it goes.

[JTR70]

No Problem Pete. It sounds like you'll eventually come up with the answer. John's suggestion sounds like its worth exploring.
The complicated plumbing example was a photo I found on the net. Mine is a simple straight over shot in front of the cooler now. The ducting to the left I built a few years before will have to be omitted but that's the way it goes as things change and develop.

[jetdog]

Justin and JB many thanks for the input, ideas and photos! Next week I'm planning to go in with the foam injection plan.
I think this method will render the best results in re-shaping the tank to fit just a bit further into the fender. The cooler is in and awaits the front suspension to make certain the clearances are good for plumbing and cooler location. Will post when mission is complete with photos.

Pete