Canuck 1960B T5 Coupe Resto

[JTR70]

Here's that measurement you wanted Scott:
Unmolested Factory original. This is an A car but your T5 is going to be the same thing.
One more in standard measurement. Hope this helps...Justin.

[Scott B]

Thank you Justin for the information very much appreciated. Driver side splash pan in position and welded in

[Scott B]

Now the fun begins. Time to start Positioning the nose and work backwards towards the cab. Also a trick for temporary hinge pins (bolts) to make taking the door off and on easier. I Added a hook to the bolt so it can pull out easier and ground down the end so it slides in easier to line up hinges.

[Phil Planck]

Scott
Great tip. I still have lots of door off/on to do.

[Jbrooks]

Scott

Use the pair of small alignment holes in the hinge not the bolts, it will stay truer. I made a set from drill rod they work great.

[Scott B]

Struggled with the right position, height and angle for the latch receiver. Finally gave up and started over and used clecos to sneak up and find the correct positions. Should have done this from the beginning.


now starting to to take some measurements and cardboard templates of original nose position.

[JTR70]

Now you're on the right path. This is the same realization I came to with the coupster project. The hood has to engage and operate properly first. This is the baseline, then you work outward from there. Keep up the great work. Justin

[roy mawbey]

Scott , well done on this work your points make such good sense. None of this work is easy at all !!

Roy

[Scott B]

Thanks Roy and Justin. I think first step is to fold over the extra metal on the new nose panel. Assuming this is a process of hammer tapping and a thin curved dolly. Any suggestions appreciated.

[Scott B]

Some slow dolly work managed to result in a good rollover if the rain gutter edge.

[JTR70]

Doing a nice job of tucking that lip over.

[Scott B]

Starting to start the challenge of getting the nose in the best position. Finding the centre line of the nose section was the first challenge. Using some string and measuring I was able to find the approximate centre – but as it is made by hand different centre lines occur. Looks like overall it needs to shift a bit more to the right so will need to trim some more off the edge lip of the inner front panel. Even still the gaps around the hood left and right are at times exaggerated and also at times to tight. I think I need to land on the best position to start and fix it to the inner support panel. From there I guess I will need to shrink and expand in places. Not sure how to go about this yet.

[Scott B]

After finding some rough centre points for the nose section it became obvious that the nose piece needed to slide to the right about a quarter inch. However the supporting ledge looked like it needed trimming to allow movement. It occurred to me that if I closed the lid I could trace around the hood to confirm the outer edge and then measure in 5/8 ( rough width of the flat profile of the rain gutter) to know where to trim. After tracing and marking - a clear picture emerged. It showed where I needed to trim excess material and where I was short material. This seems like such an obvious check I could have made while shaping the panel early on to save grief now. Really kicking myself for not thinking of doing this simple check/step earlier on.

[roy mawbey]

Scott we could all kick ourselves at times but its how we learn the hard way and once learn't we are unlikely to do the same thing twice. Its experience and I have gained so much looking in detail without getting my hands dirty on these great threads. That dolly is just super Scott. Really a great bit of kit. Its like clamps Justin has one for every occasion. I remarked on his clamps some years ago now but... they are like the correct dolly just so important.

You are doing really well its not easy !!

Roy

[Scott B]

Thanks for the encouragement Roy. It is an absolute learning experience - fortunately it is still a pleasure and I continue to enjoy the journey not just the destination.
I added on a tab extension to the front leading edge of the front nose rain gutter – this will be joined up with the tab on the inner latch. This also helped set the height and the gap with the front hood tip and helped me get closer to finding where the nose needs to sit for the overall best fit.

I am uncertain as to how to proceed to shape the nose around the hood. There are still places where the gap is too wide with the hood and other areas where it is to close. Not sure how best to resolve this issue so I get a nice edge from the nose piece to run along the edge of the hood all around. If you have a look at the marked up photo – looks like maybe a number of options and approaches will be needed– some include a pie-cut to close or open and others maybe just welding on a thin strip of metal to fatten. I am not experienced enough to do leading on the edge. Any advice or assistance on how to shape the edge of the nose piece to fit properly around the edge of the hood would be very much appreciated.

Thanks

[JTR70]

The right side is fine. If it runs a little wide both there and in the corner don't worry about it that's what the lead solder is for. The left side will have to be relief cut to create the desired gap,No getting around that. All par for the course fitment issues for sure. Now that you have the nose close I would also begin fender mock ups to see how all this is going to flow in together. Once you begin those you'll gain a whole new perspective of what still lies ahead. Looking good so far though, keep up the nice work. Justin

[Scott B]

Spent some more time trying to find the correct position for the nose. Took a number of measurements to best determine the centering of the nose (in a good spot now and gaps on both sides for the rain gutter are better that can be solved by leading not cutting) also wanted to be sure the nose was square to the car. Used wood with clecos for a fixed position I can come back to at different times. Squaring the nose and aligning it at centre was the tricky part but close enough within an 1/8 of an inch. I still have to consider soon that the over all angle is down by 1.3 degree - the left side a little lower. I could inflate tires on the side by a few lbs maybe ))). not sure it is that big a deal and until I start to match up the side fenders wont worry too much yet.

I think I need to soon consider cutting out the side fenders and start to see how they line up.

[Scott B]

Trying now to get the new nose rain gutter seated flat on the inner panel. The inner panel shape and height works well for original nose but new nose doesn’t fit so well. Rather then trying to Reshape the inner panel ledge I am placing some raised profile pieces to square up the ledges so rain gutter sits flush and this also allows me to adjust a better height for the hood and nose gaps to be more even for height - not original for Porsche but it works well and will be completely hidden once done