356 body work

[badsix]

anyone Bruce maybe, have an idea how this can be fixed. I looks like someone ground or sanded until the metal is paper thin and it split. plus its right were the wire is in the folded lip of the opening. this makes it hard to get it clean to maybe weld. I can wire weld sheet metal good, but i'm not trying this I'd have holes everywhere. I have a tig machine but i'm not real good with it. i do know people that are experts with tig but i'm not so sure this can be welded. my other concern is it's going to shrink. no problem if you can get a dolly behind it, but the wires there. what I would like to do is replace that section if I could find one some place.
thanks Jay D.

[JTR70]

I'm sure Bruce can provide better insight but if it was mine I'd have no reservations about just stitching that section right back together. Even with a MIG welder as your right on a shouldered and supported area so any distortion will be minimal provided you take it slow. The only thing I would do before hand is to make sure this wired lip is in the correct spot as far as shape, width and fender profile. Once the skin and wire a welded together you will lose a lot of this areas ability for a "slip" adjustment between the two if you need the fender to come in or go out after the fact. Hope this helped.
Justin

[John Pierce]

Jay,

I would follow Justin's suggestion as the metal is too thin and you'll end up welding the wire in place.

Make a template that is larger than your area that is to be cut out. Unbend the lip to remove the inside edge wire and de-rust the area. Use 20 gauge sheet metal, cut to size and curve appropriately. The lip needs about 13 mm of metal. Bend the lip over the wire and reshape. Spot weld in place then TIG it in and shape it. Remove the edge wire, prime the whole area then put the wire back in place.

I just did this on my build where there are some pictures on this forum.

Good luck.

Cheers,

John

[badsix]

THANKS Justin, John,justin I just don't think I can mig it, the metal their is tissue paper thin. plus the back side is dirty. I thought about unfolding the lip and cutting the wire out then I could get it clean. I could then hammer it if needed. but I've still got the thin metal to deal with. as said before I can get someone from were I work that knows tig real well I don't

john, yes for me it might be easier to make a piece to fit. it might take several attempts but could be done. that curve would be difficult to get it just right, plus folding it over the wire. I have a shrink and stretcher tool would form it
Jay D.

[JTR70]

If this damage was caused by rust then I would put a new lip on it and clean the remaining cancer out. I don't what the backside looks like but the area seams solid enough and only suffers from careless grinding. If that is the case just have your buddy TIG it back together. To build a replacement section here is unnecessarily complicating a simple straight forward repair. Your car and your time of course.

[badsix]

no rust just lots of undercoat. I have most of it cleaned off, I will need to unfold the lip around the wire and clean that area. lite rust there maybe, rust and undercoat make for very difficult welding. I suppose I could try it if it doesn't work I can punt
thanks Jay D.

[Jack Staggs]

I know that you guys don't like it, but I might attempt to braze that little area. Wouldn't take much. Low heat, and the material flows behind the surface. I learned this technique when I was working for George Barris way back in the day.

[badsix]

you may be onto something Jack. my biggest fear is warping that area real bad. I would like to keep that edge nice and straight, its split about 8-9 in.. i'm thinking as soon as the torch touches it it will go nuts. I will stop by the welding store and see how small a tip I can get and brazing rod sizes
Jay D.

[tperazzo]

Hey badsix
My car has the exact same problem! If you wait s few weeks, I'll get around to it and show my method. You have some good advice here and it really depends what you're comfortable with.

I love TIG, no surprise by now, but I don't think you can get it clean enough on both sides to get a decent weld. MIG will likely blow holes since the metal is a knife edge.
I
My plan is to cut and replace about 1" back so I can hammer and dolly the weld.

Now the hardest part is recreating the repair piece and hammering it over. Best of luck on whatever you decide. If you get to it before me, I'm all ears as to what works!

[badsix]

tperazzo, you got it 100% theirs no way to clean or hammer the weld back out with that wire in the way.
yes lots of options here, trying to make that piece might be a challenge.
I would like to hear what Bruce has to say about this. I'm wondering if this isn't a stress crack from some body flexing. keep in touch, finding that section on an old dead body would be the ultimate solution.
Jay D.

[John Pierce]

Hey Jay,

I just posted a bunch of pictures on how I just did the same repair that you're looking to do. It wasn't too hard to do. The toughest part is getting up the courage to cut into the original metal The area on your fender is much smaller, but it's the same technique.

My post is at:
http://www.abcgt.com/forum/14-356-Restoration-Projects/14008-63-356B-T-6-Rebuild.html?limit=6&start=270#23823




Cheers,

John

[badsix]

nice, I like the rolled edge looks nice and smooth. I'm going to try and get out to the shop and play with a few pieces of metal tonight
Jay D.