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1961 356B Roadster Seats Recovering Project

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  • 1961 356B Roadster Seats Recovering Project

    Justin has been 'suggesting' that I post some pics of my latest project on the Roadster. After being without power for the past 48 hours due to the storms that clobbered the East Coast, here are some verbage and pics.
    Compared to the projects that you guys have undertaken this is a small job.
    I ordered the seat covers from Autos International to replace the ones that I had put on in 1975 that I got from Auto Mat that used to be in Hicksville, NY.
    Here is a before pic.

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    Of course the first thing to do is remove the seats from the car. I did this one at a time starting with the passenger seat first. I removed the 6 screws holding the seat back in place, then laid the recliners forward and slide the seat forward to remove it from the rails and the car.

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    I didn't take the pics in the order that I should have or enough pics, but this will give you an idea.
    This is the drivers seat removed.

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    and of course before the drivers seat was taken out.
    I had already finished the passenger seat.
    The thing that is tricky to do is cut the sides of the seat properly so that they will fit over the backs with out tearing. You must measure one inch from the back seam on each side and seven inchs up from the bottom. If done correctly the recliner hinges will cover the opening. 'Measure 2 or 3 times and cut once-thats the only cut that is critical without making a mistake-there is no correction once the cut is made'!
    The back of the seat bottoms are held in place with tacks that go into a wood piece located at the base of the seat back. Autos International uses a air powered staple gun that I don't have. The originals were tacked in at Porsche.

    The bottoms are fitted by slipping the covers over the seat frame and then compressing the seat springs so that the vinyl can be fitted into the U channel on the base of the seat. First make sure that the U channel is open and clean then using a long flat blade screw driver carefully push the vinyl into the channel. To keep it there as you work around the seat I had some thin wood molding left over from our kitchen cabinet project. I cut the molding into appropriate lenghts and tapped it in place as I worked around the base of the bottoms. In the seat cover 'kit' you are provided a one inch wide fiber board to keep the viynl in place. I removed the wood molding one pice at a time as I worked around the seat base. The rear piece of vinyl must be folded to smooth out the apperance. Once that is done 'hammer' the U channel closed so that the fiber board and viynl will not come out.
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    Here is the passenger seat installed with out the back on.

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    Before the back of the seat is installed find out where the screw hole anchors are. You can usually do this by feel. Once they have been located use a awl to poke thru the fabric, vinyl or leather-then with a 'sharp' single edge razor blade or knife carefully cut the fabric around the hole so when you put the recliner screws back in the material will not get jammed in the screw threads.
    Here are a couple of shots of the seat covers finished from the passenger side and then the drivers side.

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    I am glad that I did this and am thinking about retaining the current side panels since they blend into the material on the dash.
    More thought on that!

    The latest is that last Thursday a noted car pub came to town and did a photo shoot on the shop and selected the Roadster and a nice 1970 911 that the shop did for a up coming issue. When the time of publication is announced I'll let you know the mag etc. We did many rolling and still shots around Richmond. Here is one at Rockettes Landing on the Jmaes River that I took. Rockettes Landing is where A. Lincoln landed in April 1865 when he came to Richmond after it was defeated during the Civil War. You can see the skyline of Ricmond and the James River in the back ground.

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    Enjoy,
    Dick

  • #2
    Thank you for taking the time to share this restoration project of yours Dick! The photos and details are great! I think this post takes some of the fear an average DYI like me might have in tackling the upholstry side of a restoration. Autos offers a nice product. The stitching and the tucks are good making your final products look great! "new" seats make all th difference don't they? Thanks again for posting. BTW your floor pans look clean enough to eat off of. Justin
    Justin Rio

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    • #3
      Hey Justin,
      You should see the under side.
      The pans have been Turtle Wax ICEd!
      Those stone pecks have been taken care of also.
      Dick

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      • #4
        A few questions. What did you do with the padding? Was the stuff on there still good? Did you tie off the lower section somehow to give the crease/smile in the seat?
        Mic
        1959A coupe

        Comment


        • #5
          Mic,
          I'll attempt to answer your questions. I started with the back of the passenger seat first. After I got the old covering off I removed the back padding that Porsche put on. This can be removed in one piece with out destoying it. It is shaped with the seat contours of the back of the seat and held in place with stiching near the top and rear of the seat. I wanted to see the condition of the springs in the back of the seat. They are attached by being hooked on to burlap at the factory. As you can imaging after all these years the burlap was pretty bad. I didn't want to disturb what was good so I tied the springs off using waxed 'whipping line' that you can get from sailing out fitters, i.e West Marine etc.
          This is how it comes on the spools.

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          I tied the springs as needed to the frame of the back of the seat so that I knew they would hold.
          Autos International provides you, at a cost, foam backing that can be used on the seat backs.
          I didn't use it since I thought it would be an over kill-my choice!
          This is what it looks like.

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          They also, at a cost will give you some burlap and foam to use as you see fit.

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          After I had the springs tied off to my satisfaction I reattached the original seat backs and then slipped the seat back covers on and tacked the bottoms. Remember to carefully measure and slit the sides of the backs, before you try and pull them over the seat backs. These slits are where the recliners will be attached. Three screws on a side.

          The bottoms, especially the driver's side springs seemed somewhat compressed. To help this I cut some sections of camping pads that I use in sailing shorts. I cut a small section, perhaps 4 inches by 8 inches and put that in the 'deepest hole' on the driver's side then over layed that with a section the size of the bottom of the seat between the sides or pleats. I only had to use one layer on the passenger side. This gives a nice firm seat and feels good. The pleating I did not have to tie off. It was not tied off on the original covers nor on the covers that I put on in 1975. Autos Int apparently forms this by heat as they make the seats.
          Here is a pic of the camping foam that is used as a ground pad for sleeping bags and can be obtained at Wal Mart etc.

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          OK-if there is something that I didn't cover give me a yell and I'll try and help.
          Dick

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          • #6
            Great follow up info Dick. Thank you! Yes, the underside of your car looks pretty nice too! Remember in the '70's and 80's when the appearance of your floor pans where the furthest thing from your mind? Now you want them as nice as the fenders...
            Thanks again! Justin
            Justin Rio

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            • #7
              Dick, Thanks for putting this out here & answering my questions. This is something that I've been wanting to do but am worried how it will come out (I don't want to screw it up). I've read what I could find & have heard both sides of the foam vs. horse hair. Now it's driving season so hopefully come winter I'll get it done. They are way over due.
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              Mic
              1959A coupe

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              • #8
                Hey Justin,
                The pans jus' sort of happened that way!

                Dick

                @ RIR during the photo shoot

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                • #9
                  Nice work Dick. Very interesting about the crease on the seat pads. I often wondered how they got such a pronounced crease from cord tied down. Now, it makes sense its formed as they make the panel.

                  My front seat backs are original never restored. They sure have collapsed to a degree but the vinyl is still in very good condition. Interesting to see the pads you can buy.

                  Roy

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                  • #10
                    Roy,
                    I had put in a response to your post yesterday and for some reason it went to the cyber world.
                    It appears things have cleared up-hopefully.
                    Thanks for your comments.
                    Cheers,
                    Dick

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                    • #11
                      So the glad that glitch corrected itself Dick..

                      Mic, your seats look very tired! If you follow Dick's lead you'll be so much happier going down the road. Fresh seats are all the difference in the world. Let us know how your getting on with that little project.
                      Thanks again Dick!
                      Justin
                      Justin Rio

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                      • #12
                        As a follow on to the seat covering project that I did last June, I began to look closer at the lower seat rails.
                        Once you open the door of the car the first thing that struck my eyes were those rusty seat rails by those nice new seat covers!
                        Well, Stoddard had a set of lower seat rails that they listed as fitting Pre A and 356As.
                        NLA had the same seat rails as also fitting 356 T5s and T6s in addition to Pre as and 356As.
                        Same stock numbers!
                        SO, I called both NLA and Stoddards.
                        The rails arrived on Friday and Friday evening they were in the car only using a flat blade screw driver and a Phillips head to remove the seat backs.
                        Been there done that before and recently.
                        This is what the old and new rails looked like with the passenger seat removed.

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                        And the new ones installed.

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                        Then with the the passenger seat reinstalled.

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                        The drivers seat was the same operation.
                        'IF' you get them don't order new screws.
                        They come with the screws which they don't happen to mention!
                        SO now I have two extra sets of new lower seat rail screws.
                        I used the 'old' ones that were put in-in 2010 during the resto process.
                        They looked new!
                        Now, I am a 'happier camper' without rusty seat rails.
                        These have a 'nickle finish' and they got a good Turtle Wax ICE coating, top and bottom, before being put in.

                        Two weeks ago was the annual European Car Show-Classics On The Green-at the New Kent Winery.
                        Iam not bragging because I am so surprised that the Roadster got 1st in Class for the 3rd year in a row.
                        They didn't know where to put the oldest Porsche in the field so we wound up in the Porsche Open Class instead of Porsche Early!
                        Go figure!
                        300 cars to see!
                        Great time!

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                        Cheers,
                        Dick

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                        • #13
                          Looks great Dick! For such a small component it sure makes a world of difference. When looking down into a 356 your eye is always drawn to that seat rail area and to find it rusty or pitted sure changes your perception. Thanks for sharing and great show photo!
                          Justin
                          Justin Rio

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