Getting The Coupe on the road

[admin]

Day 1
A full cleaning inside and out....10 years of dirt outside, 30 years inside!
Very little rust found, very happy about that.
Battery changed, no holes in the well : )
We pulled the tank, which is in serviceable condition.
Electric Fuel pump/incorrect petcock discovered.
Tomorrow will be running new fuel lines, and look at the orig fuel pump....

[gkw]

wow, doesn't look like the same car.
nice work, Gordon

[JTR70]

Glad to see you getting it going Mike! I noticed you have a prop-rod holding up the hood. Are your hinge prop-locks not working? Who's copper 356 is that parked in front of your car? Please keep the progress shots coming! Justin

[roy mawbey]

Mike,

Wow, its looking good. The petcock has 2 brass pipes can't quite see if yours has. What was incorrect, just the fact it has possibly a supplementary electric pump? These 6v cars and the mechanical pump you can easily see when you lift the engine lid can take sometimes a lot of churning to fill the carb bowls with fuel. The modern stuff seems to evaporate more quickly. The Zenith 32 NDIX carbs have accelerator pumps in-built. You have to pump fuel in when starting from cold by pressing the accelerator pedal to the floor say 5 times to pump fuel into the cylinders before you turn the key. ( carbs have no choke fitted )

Some have the electric pump fitted by owners to fill the bowls then they turn it off and run with the mechanical standard pump. Look at the wiring.
The petcock has a cork gasket. There is a procedure I can explain if you want to change the gasket. Mine was original until a few years ago and it just started to leak a little. Not nice leakage in the car. Always turn the fuel tap to 'Zu' (off) when leaving the car its safer.

Below the petcock and the old cork gasket still in it almost turned to wood!!!





Keep at it!

Roy

[admin]

The fuel cock was not original, and for a later year.
Yes, the second pipe is there, just the angle of the photo.
Later added electro fuel pump turns out to be non functioning, so we pulled it. Will rebuild the original.
Was trying to remove the pedals/linkages, but can't solve the rhd puzzle...
Any thoughts?
Mike

[JTR70]

Hi Mike, What part of the RHD pedal assembly is confusing you? I've never seen the connective linkage for a RHD model. Can you post a clean photo of the assembly? I'm sure Roy would be the one to help you along using his car as referrence. Justin

[roy mawbey]

Mike,

I have some photos of the RHD set up also some from a manual I think. Will look to see what I have. As Justin says where do you have the problem? Is it with the accelerator pedal linkage?

Roy

[roy mawbey]

Mike,

First a tip: As you mentioned you were going to look at the fuel pump go to www.type356a.com and look on there at their in depth fuel pump info. Its interesting. One of the vendors who sell repair kits is www.stoddard.com I exp[ect you already know there are more good vendors as well. Take notice of the setting instruction for the push rod, it is important as that controls the movement of the diaphram.
I attach a photo of the fuel pump:



The RHD pedal assembly you can see here on my car. An old photo the area is much improved now!



Also some info on linkage you have a hand throttle on the dashboard below the rather complex setting area:



Attached some other info sheets regarding the clutch pedal area:







The written info concerns LHD but is basically the same. Have you books on the 356? The 'Elfrink' book will help you if you try to find one on e-bay possibly.

Roy

[roy mawbey]

Mike, the fuel pump layout did not seem to show. I attach it again here: Its a wonderful bit of engineering actually.



Sorry if some of the phots are out of sync its my fault not the sites!

Roy

[admin]

Hi Roy,
We are trying to remove the whole pedal assembley to service the return spings and to lubricated. Can't seem to get it out.
It is identical to the picture of yours, can't lift either plate (3nut on Pass. side & 2nut at front of pedals) that holds the main rod. All bolts are off with exception of Accelerator mount, those are stuck.
Thanks,
Mike

[roy mawbey]

Mike,

Sorry, never removed my plates there. They probably are like yours stuck. I think with bolts being used there is no weld, is it nature or 50 odd years holding them there? Justin maybe has done it?

Roy

[roy mawbey]

Mike,
Found the infom you need I think. Below I took some info from the Factory wiorkshop manual. I attach all the copies becuase some might be easier to read than others.











Hope it helps

Roy

[Phil Planck]

You are going to have to slide that plate(pedal assembly) rearward until the two stud going through the bulkhead for the m/c are inside the car. Then you can rotate it upward at the front and lift the rear. May need a thin putty knife tapped in between the floor pan and the pedal base to break it loose. If you can get the knife part way in, then spray some penetrating oil in the gap and keep working at it. This is a common rust out area on the 356, so there could be some rust "bonding" going on there.

Good luck

Phil Planck

[admin]

I will try that.
Thanks Phil.

[JTR70]

Hi Mike,

I asked the oracle Steve heinrichs about your car. It was delivered new to Lindsay Motors in South Africa. Hope this helps. My thanks again to Steve for his help!
Justin