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Roadster Top - How to salvage this into a driver?

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  • Roadster Top - How to salvage this into a driver?

    Hi! I decided to open up my 61 roadster top mechanism for the first time in at least 30 years to see what I can do about getting it back on the car. The overall condition was ok I thought until I found significant rusted portions on the section where the back of the window edge touches the top seals. I have attached three pictures of the passenger side which is the worse one, plus one picture of the driver's side. Both sides have problems as you can see. A couple of questions would really help me out. I have never seen this top installed or even with fabric except when I was about 5 years old (so I don't remember this).

    Questions:

    1) Looks like there used to be a slot/groove in the parts shown. What went in the slot? In the pictures you can see a mushy wood-like material in there rotting away. Who can even say what it was originally after 60 years? Should I just scrape all this out of the groove? Do I need to put something back in the slot? Is it possible the residue is just some piece of the old top?

    2) What should be done about the rusted-out portions, particularly the passenger side? I mean there is a lot of metal just gone. This is for a DRIVER grade car, not a 500k concourse-queen. A couple ideas I have thought of:

    option a) Do nothing (besides sand + paint) - just try to use the remaining two holes to attach the window seal and don't drive the car in the rain to prevent more rust. I live in California and avoiding rain is easy.

    option b) Find someone that can fix this the right way (easier said than done maybe) and pay them to weld in new metal or whatever to get something solid to work with.

    option c) Get bondo and fill the cavity up (possibly using some sort of 'spacer' to recreate a groove if that's important??) and then screw into the bondo. Not sure you can screw into bondo as I have only worked with it one time. This seems like the kind of repair that someone later will say - what idiot did that??? But it is my car, and if it works, I might do it

    option d) Other ideas?


    ANY pictures you could upload showing how the top is fitted in this portion (or anywhere) are greatly appreciated. Any instructions, videos, or how-to guide you may have a link to is also very welcome. I'm trying to put together a puzzle here with no picture on the box to work from. I will make an effort to attend the local meet-ups to snap pics in the coming months, but with COVID19 currently on the loose, I won't likely get to do this for many months.

    Thank you so much in advance.

    Brian



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  • #2
    Were are you located? I have a spare T5 top frame I can get you some numbers PM me your contact data
    Pushed around since 1966.

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    • #3
      That's a nice offer John...

      Brian, the next step for that top frame would be to either have it media blasted or chemically dipped clean. All that rot has to be removed so you can get an exact idea as to how far that cancer goes. No, Bondo is not designed for structural repairs, not even fiberglass would help you here. The frame will have to be welded with new pieces fabricated from steel; especially if you're going to drive it.
      Last edited by JTR70; 04-18-2020, 07:23 AM.
      Justin Rio

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      • #4
        Hi Brian
        I agree with Justin, blast it and see what's left.
        I am doing this exact restoration at the moment, (and did this many years ago on another frame) so they are prone to rot in this area.
        The channel holds a hardwood tack strip (I use beach) that is machined on the top edge.
        To complete the holding channel an 'L' shaped piece of steel is tack welded in.
        I can sort out some photos if that would help.
        Regards and keep safe.
        Drew

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        • #5
          Thank you for the help.

          OK - bondo and fiberglass are OUT - why make things worse with a shoddy half-measure repair. (Not that I'm skilled with either one anyway)

          Does anyone know a place I could take a frame like this to get it fixed "right"? I'm in the bay area california. I am hesitant to contact a general "welder guy" (or gal) because I'm worried if they damage it, it's irreplaceable. I'd prefer to take it to someone that does this type of work semi-regularly.

          Some pictures would be REALLY helpful to me. The more pictures the better. Some of this stuff is just not documented anywhere. Things I would love pics of include:

          How the top wraps around, or is tacked onto this mysterious wood strip.

          What are the measurements of the wood piece and how is it fit in the slot? Do you drop it in from one end? Is it a press-fit? I have zero clue.

          Pictures of the wood piece either in the channel or outside before installation.

          Pictures or installation information for a soft top on this frame. Where are things tacked, glued, bolted, pinched, stretched over the metal teeth to make a top go on this car? If there is a magazine article or pics of installation paperwork that would help.

          Is there any OTHER wood that's supposed to be on that frame?

          This car has been in my family since 1970, so it's like my brother! I want to see it fixed back up and on the road as a pleasure driver.

          Thank you for taking the time to help. I will pay it forward as I become able to help others

          Brian

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          • #6
            Here are some photos, it's trapped in the rafters so I could not get it down tonight.

            the photo you posted appears to be the window vertical seal post. I could not finds any wood except for the windshield bow. Mine looks like a rectangular tune from the hinge point.
            Rear drivers side
            Drivers side window frame seals
            Attached Files
            Pushed around since 1966.

            Comment


            • #7
              More photos. I will edit this later
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              Pushed around since 1966.

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              • #8
                More

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                Pushed around since 1966.

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                • #9
                  Hi Brian
                  Here are some of the pictures and answers you have asked for.
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                  First up is an overview of the left side channel with remnants of wooden tack strip removed and badly rusted 'L' steel insert cut free.
                  Click image for larger version  Name:	Frame 2.jpg Views:	0 Size:	254.3 KB ID:	108470
                  Here is a close up of the channel please note that the main body hing has been snapped off this is a common problem and a weak point in the design so heat and lubricate well before trying to free it.
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                  Close up of the hardwood insert note the machined shape and the fact that it was painted black before insertion.
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                  And finally a broken wooden tack strip partially inserted, it is a snug fit and held in place by the self tapping screws that hold the aluminium rubber holding trim strip on, and the bottom 'square' aluminium cushion piece.
                  Hope that helps, would you like a couple of hardwood tack strips made when I do mine?
                  Regards
                  Drew

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thank you for the pics! Very helpful. Saved for later on my computer. Yes, the area I have problems with is the vertical window seal post. Actually, besides those areas, the top frame is in pretty good shape based on what you guys have shared. My mechanism moves freely, is neither too loose nor too tight. All parts that are supposed to move, do move

                    Drew, thanks so much for offering your time to help, but I'd like to try to do it myself - my neighbor owns every woodworking tool known to man (he has practically built himself a new house by himself)... I will try to use his stuff maybe.

                    What WOULD help a ton is photos of your new parts when you make them + measurements so that I have a starting point.

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