Replacing door stops and door checks

[Safetypup]

Hello,

I need to install the door stops (round rubber that prevents the door from opening too far) and the door checks (wedge shaped rubber that helps hold the door open when desired) on a 1961 roadster.

Is it possible to install these without taking the doors off? It doesn't look like it is, but I wanted to hear what folks here say before I scrape up my forearms trying to jam them in there.

Thanks, Brian

[Jonesy_356]

Brian, I'm no expert, but I would think that would be a very difficult task and would run a pretty high risk of damage to the door, or surrounding area.

Taking the door off need not be a big deal with a bit of patience and thoughtful application of a good penetrant in the first instance, and moderate force in the second. The pins want to come out, you just have to help them.

If you go that route, make sure you have a helper to support the door.


Good luck in any case,

Jonesy

[bbspdstr]

Actually, be sure the round buffer is on the door as well.

I use masking tape all along both ends of the door and fenders. Over the top hinge on the edge of the fender is the most vulnerable area, so I use several layers there and a thin piece of cardboard under the door by the lower hinge. (It goes without saying that the hinge cover plate is removed.)

I add several layers of tape between the hinges on the inside to protect from the removal fork I made or the hammer hits both taking pins out or putting them back in. "Tape is far, far cheaper than paint repair."

Good luck,
-Bruce

[Jack Staggs]

Door CHECKS can be done with the door in place. It's actually better too, since multiple removals for trimming is needed at times. Those things can put quite a bit of stress on the doors /hinges if done wrong. GT cars with alloy door skins deleted these parts. I always give my painters the two bump stops with instructions to install them on the door before they hang them after final paint/polish.

[bbspdstr]

"Door CHECKS can be done with the door in place. It's actually better too, since multiple removals for trimming is needed at times. Those things can put quite a bit of stress on the doors /hinges if done wrong."

Jack, respectfully, I guess the questions is; which method has the most or least chance of damage to the door? I guess we could recommend masking the outer door from mid-way forward so a rookie could fiddle a new rubber wedgie in there.....the key point here is that you and I are not rookies and we get away with certain techniques and preferences from years of practice.

And you are correct about maladjusted check wedges causing potential damage to the front pinch-weld step of a 356 door. I do not remove rubber, I add lateral slot length if a gentle test shows more clearance is needed. Still, customers complain about a pronounced "thunk" when first opening and closing the doors....unaware that sound is supposed to be there when all is adjusted correctly and "like original." They didn't realize that the "originals" had worn away in use like a pencil eraser and thankfully not been adjusted as they aged and what was rubber is now akin to coal.

The admonition should first be: "Do not attempt to re-use old door checks...get new or use none." Understanding how they work is important.

-Bruce

Edit: I reread the thread and I believe a much younger, stubborn me found that the buffers can be installed with the door in place, but it's at best... 'awkward.' For a case where both checks and buffers were overlooked, I'd say to carefully remove the door by extracting the hinge pins. Think ahead: thorough masking and edge protection, ALL the needed tools, a bench or table with a blanket on which to put the removed door. A helper, especially if the door is "loaded" with glass and trim and lift mechanism, etc.

[Safetypup]

Update:

I was able to install both round door buffers without taking the door off, but it was brutal on my forearms. I have small-to-average size forearms (male) and they still basically had to get jammed in there super hard and I swear the bones in my forearm were bending to get these in. I also had a tool that was just right for the job. I think I used this: https://www.sears.com/craftsman-7-pc...p-00947477000P

I got the screws in about 1/32 of a turn at a time. *pulls out hair*

I did not end up installing the new door checks because I found one of the holes appeared to have been welded over or something *shrug*

[JTR70]

WOW! Didn't think that would even be possible. A true rabbit out of the hat trick. Handy little tool for sure, thanks for the link.
Justin