Simple question on door hinge pins

[Safetypup]

[JTR70]

Hi Brian, I assumed they all had a cotter pin hole. Anyway, only the top pin was fitted with one ( and a flat washer ) as its fighting gravity. However, I think you'll be fine without one as once its swedged home it won't be able to work out very easily. Best of luck with your Roadster!
Justin

[Safetypup]

Went out this morning and drove the half-installed lower pin up and out. I had the door which is fully loaded with glass and the door card resting snugly on a large plastic tote bin and some towels, plus the top pin is still in. Just did not want it falling.

Guess what I found on the lower pin once I got it out? Yes, a cotter pin hole. So I am operating on the assumption that I have two with holes and two without holes and I have to shuffle them around as needed. Ugh. I wish my dad had paid more attention when he hastily put those in 25 years ago.

[Safetypup]

[JTR70]

You'll have to use torch heat to get that out. Much easier on you and all the related components to use heat rather than trying to punch it out cold and now bent no less. You could also heat the pin up with what's called a "bolt buster" Tom shared this handy tool with us here: https://www.abcgt.com/new-forum/foru...rations/page12

[badsix]

your idea with the bar stock should work, I would use some 1/4 x1 steel you can grind or file a notch in it then a big hammer.
Jay D.

[Safetypup]

Updating with (my) solution.

Before going any further, make sure YOUR door is WELL-SUPPORTED if you remove any pins because they are heavy and will 100% try to fall/slip/destroy themselves. My wide-open door was sitting on top of a plastic storage tote + had some stiff foam wedged tightly under the door in 3 places plus wedged up front near the hinges in various spots to make sure no paint could touch any other paint. Even some foam squished and jammed in the little 1/2 inch clearance spot under the door where the door sill is. Then I also had several layers of tape around the top/fender low-clearance areas. This was not cheap sofa cushion foam that would just squish under a pound of force, but more like the foam they would use to ship a heavy but delicate item to space it out inside the box it comes in. I actually got my foam from a computer server box. Really tough/firm foam. Anyway, enough rambling about foam.

First, I lined up the open end of an 8mm combination wrench around the shaft and eyeballed how it would look to hit downward with a hammer. Not very good clearance. Gave a couple light hits, but I didn't like the clearance, so I decided to think it over some.

Next, I got a pair of small vice grips and clamped them vertically on the head of the top pin. Remember, it's my top pin that was stuck halfway out and somewhat bent. I twisted it back and forth like screwing in a light bulb. Once I verified that the vice grips were on there tightly, I started twisting while also applying downward force. Without even using much force at all, it started wiggling right out. Came out with very minimal effort this way, even though using a mini sledge hammer + a large screwdriver would not get it out (and it bent my pin).

Goes to show that doing something the "right" way is better. This is what worked for me anyway. If I started over and did this all over, I would have tapped the pin down the first 1/8 inch from the top or whatever, and then tried the vice grips twist at that time rather than trying to hammer more.

Just thought I'd share for future people that read this.

[roy mawbey]

When something works well and you know it was the correct way its always appreciated when you pass that info on! Well done!!

Roy