65C Barn to repaint repost

[Jbrooks]

the old post went away so I will try to remember what I stuck up here in the past couple months

65C same owner since ~1975. Rebuilt the motor several years back, then decided to replace the floors himself. Put the car up on a platform for the welding. Then getting frustrated with the floor decided to chemically strip the paint from the car. Then it sat for a few years bear, 100 ft from the beach in an unheated barn. When I met Terry the car had sat for a year or so. I finally convinced him to let Bob and I at least do the paint.

[Jbrooks]

So we were off ..... The skin was flash rusted, and had some chemical burns on the skin and dried stripper. Espically seams and joints. We sanded the entire body back to bare metal and removed the glass, numbered parts (doors hood deck lid etc.). It's is really a solid car, some minor rust under the rubber on sills and doors but overall one of the most solid tubs I have seen in 20 years.

[Jbrooks]

All the heavy pits were ground with a small carbide burr, treated with formic acid and primed with an acid etching primer. A couple days of tiny detail work, but worth it in the end. All the grinding repairs were skim coated with all-metal, or spot filled. Then block sanded, gaps were set, numbered parts reinstalled to insure we had it all correct. Even the 6mm alignment holes in the hood hinges line up. This is really a stright solid car. No wrecks, nothing out of place, lasers almost perfect.
Battery box was stripped cleaned, resealed with 3m self seam sealer, then covered with truck bead liner over a acid etch primer.

[JTR70]

Sorry we lost your most recent posts John but thank you for taking the time to re-enter a few of them. What a nice solid looking car BTW.
Justin

[Jbrooks]

Justin no sweat. And yes a nice solid car. I will finish reposting some of the repairs. I would like to have this coupe, best one I have seen in a while. The rest of the bones are a good as the body. Also a local guy bought the red C coupe that was on bring a trailer last week, so I will have another tub to care of this winter, that brings us up to eight on the island.

[Jbrooks]

Primer is done. Going back to rubinrot we went with the PPG here are the mix cards if anyone need the formulas. The has tank sat dry for a couple years looked in the tank. Crap, going to need a new one. We soaked in in evaporust saved the sender and valve, but the tank had tons of rust holes.

[Jbrooks]

Here are the sender before and after the exporust. I really like this stuff. The fuel sender had 36 hour exposure submerged. It read open and did not work when we pulled it. Now it's reads 0-200 ohms. Even the cork gasket was flexable when we rinsed it off.

[Jbrooks]

The only serious rust was was a little,in the doors, under the rubber in the front leading edge. Cut out the bad metal, replaced it

[Jbrooks]

Next a little all metal and doors are done, prime and paint

[Jbrooks]

Most of the body was flashed, and hundreds of little brown hard rust spots. Those little one that turn into a blister in 20 years. The entire car was sanded with 120 then each spot was ground out with a carbide burr, or a dentist drill. The little spots were treated burnished and covered with a thin layer of filler. Then this was blocked and leveled before acid etch primer, the blocked again before the epoxy primer. You can see the marks in the sills where the pits are ground out. The filler is applied and them sanded almost completely away to fill the small rust dots. Lots of work, but in 20-25 years there will be no blisters or bubbles under the paint.

[John Pierce]

Lots of work to do it correctly. Thanks for letting us know the process. Cheers, John

[Jbrooks]

Lots of work, but it's not really work if it's an old tub.
The body got 3 liters of primer In a couple coats, and sanded back off to smooth out the body, then several coats of PPG single stage top coat. About 1/2 of that was wet sanded back off using progressively finer grit to 3000 to remove micro scratches.
.

[Jbrooks]

Then it got the PPG Rubinot

[Jbrooks]

Another undetectable hood kink expertly removed by Bob Brooks, now three in a row. Note the 6mm pin in the hing alignment holes, gaps are perfect. No filler or all-metal, just weld and hammer work on the kink repair. Color came out fine, color looks Ok When I compared it to some RAL 3003 powder coated tool boxes I had made, it is close. Polished and waiting to return to the beach barn. Terry will finish the reassembly over the next few months (I hope ) I have started the jewelry, but the plating process is a challenge and will make another thread.

[Jbrooks]

Hood kink repair in detail I lost the photos of the before primer, but here is the best ones left.