Announcement

**S.J.Szabo** · 08-09-2015, 09:30 AM

Sorry to hear about your limited use. A 356 is a lot of fun in the rain, and it saves a wash now and then.

Anyway...

My personal preference for treatment of all chassis metal on a driver (or not) has always been for enamel followed, on road-exposed surfaces, by a good coat of rubberized sealer, that can be periodically refreshed after a simple cleaning.

First, good paint well applied is, I think, the best friend a metal has.

I find that a topcoat of the rubber-based coating's resilience, adherence, spot renewability, and the fact that it can not separate as a body, thus trapping moisture, provides a very serviceable protection against corrosion in real-world conditions.

Of course, while it is noted that oil will dissolve the rubberized coating (but not the enamel), the displacing oil does a fine job of providing waterproof protection. By the same token, a rubberized coating is easily removed with wd-40(r)to facilitate paint coating repairs if required.

My qualification is the successful deployment of this system over some 150K road miles over 30 years without a failure.

$.02 from a driver's seat.

**badsix** · 08-09-2015, 10:04 PM

about the same as above I sprayed epoxy on the undercarriage and inside floor, a couple of good wet coats. then use an under coating, Wirths has a good product we used it under my boys VW. I used the 3M type on my 356 but I think the Wirths is much better. the reason for the undercoating is a little sound proofing. but mainly to protect the epoxy or any other paint you might put on. the bottom of a car takes a real beating from rocks and what ever is on the road. I like to shoot several coats of undercoat on the upper fender areas. rocks can stick to a tire and fly off under your fender with enough force to dent or facture your paint.
Jay D.

**William Crowell** · 08-09-2015, 11:39 PM

Monsieur Szabo wrote: "Sorry to hear about your limited use. A 356 is a lot of fun in the rain, and it saves a wash now and then."

I tried that, but all it did was lead to new rust. That's why I'm stripping, blasting and painting it again. (Have owned the car since 1973.)

**JTR70** · 08-10-2015, 02:39 AM

Interesting product Video William. I think that stuff would be an extreme overkill for the kind of road use your car will see. The project in the film is a 4X4 truck chassis which will more than likely see its share of caked on heavy trail mud and the non-stick properties of the coating should make clean up go a little quicker. I don't imagine you'll be doing a trail blazing cross-country in your freshly restored 356. I've also heard of a few guys using that roll-on bedliner in place of tar and/or rocker shootz while it is extremely tough and durable I think it too falls under the category of overkill. I think a good coat of epoxy sealer along with some 3M heavy drip check along the seams behind a good coat of catalyzed paint and or rocker shootz will be all the protection you'll need. Justin

**William Crowell** · 08-18-2015, 10:15 PM

Eric O. of South Main Auto does excellent car repair videos from the rust belt in upstate New York, where they salt the roads heavily and you're lucky to get 10 years' use from a car. Even 1 and 2 year old cars show significant rust damage there.

At about 14:00 into this video, note how amazed Eric is that this guy's old Toyota pickup has fared so well. It looks like the owner used that non-stick coating.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pmUmsf0WgeI

I have no connection with the non-stick coating company.

Announcement

primer and paint the pan and undercarriage?

primer and paint the pan and undercarriage?

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment