Old business- parts related

[bbspdstr]

From an issue of "VW~Porsche" magazine from 1981:

It brought a tear to my eye....."New, not rebuilt"....sigh. $375...sob.
A "rebuild" with finally new key ingredients seems to be a bit more, like $2 grand....and "kids...don't try this at home."

This is one of the most important items that will allow any 356 to drive 'like new'.....so maybe 356s aren't driven much anymore? Maybe long-time owners are getting used to "sawing" their 356s down the road? Maybe new owners think sloppy steering is just a 356 'characteristic'? Maybe the new breed of owner/driver just accepts the $2,000 rebuild over a $375 new box as part of the fee for joining an elite group who pays five hundred thousand for a Speedster...unlike dinosaurs like me who bought Speedsters for five hundred...that didn't need a rebuilt steering box.... yet.

Perhaps this is just my venting against growing old. Maybe the air-cooled VW crowd can perk me up!
http://www.stoddard.com/356/front-suspension-and-steering/steering-box-parts/nla-47-010.html
This, from our beloved (seriously!) Stoddard Parts: "we have sold a couple...looks like maybe to a place out west....but have had no feedback."
I asked about what Pitman arm worked with that TRW box ... and no answer was forthcoming.
The answer for those owners of the early 356s is: none. The VW Pitman arm is totally different in attachment and geometry and will only allow centering on a Bug. (Sorry, I cannot find the picture I took to illustrate the differences.)

So, someone needs to make a safe arm that will correctly interface the new VW steering box with the 356 steering geometry. "Faking it" with a VW arm will be unnecessary frustration, even if the steering dampener is not attempted with the Bug inner right (LHD) tie-rod. While it will seem to work, either the true center of the box will be ignored or the wheel travel will be different left and right...among other geometric issues.

Personally, for the amount these old sports cars are driven, I'd pay $500 for a correct arm and put a new TRW box on every 356 for half the price of a ZF rebuild.
I'll greatly appreciate any feedback that may come from this posting.

Thanks,
-Bruce

[JTR70]

Thanks for posting Bruce! Brand spankin' new in '81 but 375.00 was quite a chunk of change especially considering what the cars were going for back then. I'm sure many an enthusiast scoffed at that ad then just as we scoff at 2K now for "newuesed" one. I seem to recall someone trying to retro-fit a TRW unit a 356 but with very mixed results. I'll try and remember where I saw that. Speaking of saw.... "sawing their 356's down the road" good one...

[roy mawbey]

Bruce,

Nice thread and info. The ZF on my car has done about 140,000 miles and in 46 years I have been most careful with it always inspecting the oil level. In last few years I did replace the original factory coupler for the new non-fabric type I took off. I still have the original its not actually split still looks strong.

But, I think you might be the man to ask:

Over the years I topped up the ZF with oil to the almost the top of the filler hole. Maybe 10 years ago noticed some oil on the floor after a drive. I worried about that. For the next 6 years kept adding a small quantity to the same position at top of the filler hole.

Thought a seal had gone but did not want the job of changing it. Then asked some questions and some mentioned filling the box with grease from below pumping it in.

I did wonder if in motion the viscosity of the grease would leave
' tram lines 'rather than the oil always being in contact.

So.. continued with the oil. Then I read the level of oil should only be just above the gears in the box when using a pencil torch to inspect.

Over time I have noticed the oil drips have slowly decreased and only yesterday thought to myself must check to see the level inside.

By box shows no play as normal wheel straight ahead no play and no wander. I think the box is great.

But... where would you fill the oil upto in the box Bruce??

Roy

[bbspdstr]

Bruce,....... where would you fill the oil upto in the box ?? Roy

Roy, the factory literature concerning the steering box mentions nothing about oil level, just "fill with a quality SAE 90 gear oil and check at regular intervals." (The Factory suggests every 6,000 miles) It gets "filled" with .25 liter or .25 US quart, so they were not very specific on "how much," were they?

I'd say you could 'top it off' and not be wrong....what's the definition of "fill" to each of us?

The rebuilding process of the gearbox is described in great detail and mentions packing the worm gear with grease from the lower opening upon reassembly. Filling grease through the top hole is difficult and the usual chassis grease breaks down and the liquid leaks faster than the 90 weight, so really, removing the box and replacing seals is maybe the best fix a DIY person should undertake.

The only non-separating grease I know of is not obtainable in small quantities and is very expensive from DuPont. Therefore, if you are one of the lucky few who have the Factory spec of "10mm" of freeplay when the wheel is centered as you drive along.....I think you may be fine for another 46 years with that steering box in your 356, even with the Brit "controlled seepage"!

Best regards,
-Bruce

[roy mawbey]

Bruce,

Thanks for the reply! I think you are probably right the level should not make a difference unless when you replace the allen screw plug with the oil fully up to the top it might generate a form of hydraulic action on full movement if its moved fast and the pressure might?? impart some force against the now 56 year old seals?

I think the cost of the SAE 90 over a year is worth paying even if you lose some on the floor. The chassis members underneath the box probably like it even though I can't remember actually the last time they got wet!!

Cheers

Roy