Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Two door disassembly questions

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Two door disassembly questions

    I hope you guys don't mind if I ask a couple of more questions.

    My doors look pretty good so far, but I won't know for sure until I strip them.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	door1.jpg
Views:	49
Size:	159.9 KB
ID:	60581

    The door stop mounting bracket isn't supposed to be bent down like this, is it?

    Click image for larger version

Name:	door2.jpg
Views:	33
Size:	109.4 KB
ID:	60582

    And what does the FSM mean when it says, "Bend open the window elevating track at the arrow...". If you stick a screwdriver between the window and the track and pry on the track, you would break the window, wouldn't you?

    Click image for larger version

Name:	door3.jpg
Views:	37
Size:	99.7 KB
ID:	60583

    Thanks very much, everyone.

  • #2
    Bill
    I can help on your first question. No, the door stop is not supposed to be bent like that. It should be a flat surface where the rubber stop screws in. If you look at Tom Perazzo's thread(SC Coupe Ewatoration) under the "restoration" section you can see how he reinforced his so it would not bend like yours did.

    Phil Planck

    Comment


    • #3
      I don't recommend adding a reinforcement there. It's bent out of shape because the door was forced open too far, at some point in it's life. Better to bend there, than some other hard to repair place if it ever happens again.
      Remove the window frame first, then undo the hardware for the lift mechanism from the door. You will then be able to slide the window track off of the lift.
      Jack (analog man from the stone age)

      Comment


      • #4
        Click image for larger version

Name:	carrera2036.JPG
Views:	53
Size:	60.7 KB
ID:	60587
        Both doors on my coupe are bent exactly like yours William. I decided it best to leave them as they are. They are bottomed out as far as they are gonna go with no danger of allowing the door to collide with the front fender's edge. As a matter of fact the rubber stop has been off the entire time during its restoration and mock up with plenty of clearance between the two with both doors swung all the way open. These are not seen once the car is assembled and it allows the doors it swing just a touch wider while getting in and out. But to be correct they should be flat; your decision.
        Justin Rio

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks for the great information, gentlemen.

          Jack, are you saying that the correct window assembly procedure would be to put the latch, glass and window regulator into the door and then insert the window frame last?

          Which is supposed to go in first, the latch or the window frame?

          Maybe somebody can point me to a good tutorial on door assembly.

          I do have the FSM reprint, but it doesn't answer a lot of questions.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by William Crowell" post=27105
            Thanks for the great information, gentlemen.

            Jack, are you saying that the correct window assembly procedure would be to put the latch, glass and window regulator into the door and then insert the window frame last?
            Yes.
            Jack (analog man from the stone age)

            Comment


            • #7
              Some take the steps for T-5 or-6 Coupe door glass and frame removal like this:

              First, soak all hardware in Kroil (or alternative penetrant) for a few weeks of marination, especially in the lower regions and the nuts and bolts thereto.

              Gather as many 6mm tools you have in your box; open-end, box wrench, 1/4" ratchet short sockets... and begin to loosen the hardware while becoming aware that what will fit best is not what you have.

              Raise the glass to where there is access to the lift mechanism's roller wheels and "pop" those out of the track on the window's bottom. Something like a screwdriver bent back on itself or a radiator hose reverse pick can work as well for the prying. Don't worry, water-pump pliers 'pops' 'em back in going together.

              Loosen the mounting stand hardware on the door bottom and allow the glass to come out of it's frame guiding tracks, front and rear and lean it against the outer door skin out of the way...OR, raise it up into the frame and fasten it on both ends and top with tape. Then take the brass/chromed frame's hardware (8 bolts) all off and take the frame and the glass together up and out of the door. Separate when lying safely on a blanket on a table.

              Then, the lifting mechanism may be removed and if option #1 is employed, the glass can be taken out on it's side via the top slit or carefully through the lowest inner frame opening. Not a difficult Chinese puzzle, just be aware the tempered glass is soft and can scratch easily.

              Make notes to be sure you keep track of what goes where upon reassembly. The second door will be easier and by your 100th door, the cursing will not be needed and less beer with be consumed.

              Have fun and good luck, whoever you chose to believe and choose to follow.

              Comment

              Working...
              X