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The two cars I've seen which had positive camber up front that could not be adjusted out both had a bent control arm(s). Those old cast iron units can give way against a strong enough curb shot.
It's always been my impression that the Factory spec for the front wheels is for positive camber, to the tune of something under a half of a degree or so.
It's possible to get some amount out by using the pin spacers in unrecommended combinations, but one risks binding in the bushings at the extremes.
I've managed to get very close to 0deg. (and as close to zero toe as I can make it), but I'd have to dig around in my notes to quote the shim combination I used. It must not be too wrong as I've got something over 100k mi. on the same pins and bushings without wear issues.
I'm not familiar enough to say SJ. I'm sure Jack or Bruce would have the answer. All I know is on the two cars mentioned earlier each had a bent arm and once replaced the problem was solved.
Nice of you to offer Tom. I'll keep that in mind for myself,
Thank you!
It's always been my impression that the Factory spec for the front wheels is for positive camber, to the tune of something under a half of a degree or so.
It's possible to get some amount out by using the pin spacers in unrecommended combinations, but one risks binding in the bushings at the extremes.
I've managed to get very close to 0deg. (and as close to zero toe as I can make it), but I'd have to dig around in my notes to quote the shim combination I used. It must not be too wrong as I've got something over 100k mi. on the same pins and bushings without wear issues.
Lester:
There IS NO camber adjustment on a 356, if the camber is not within specs, SOMETHING is bent, period. Installing the 10 shims incorrectly can make a small correction, at the expense of theoretical binding of the suspension. Race shops, such as Vic Skermants can provide specially machined vertical ("C") links to provide significant negative camber. In my opinion, not desirable for road use. For most DYI-ers, it would be a good idea to read and understand the entire shop manual section on front suspension, before undertaking overall. Many "professional" shops don't understand just what they are trying to achieve.
All:
IF everything goes smoothly, front suspension overhaul is straight forward. Most DIYer's will sublet the king pin installation to a local machine shop. The only challenge is measuring the arm offset, easily done with a straight-edge and vernier caliper (and 3 arms)! Be sure to also measure the vertical link offset, nominally 7mm, but also with a 2mm tolerance. Easily done with VW270a, or, a bit of ingenuity.
If all the above s done correctly, and the camber is off, you are at the mercy of a shop which has ALL of tje following: trailing arm guage P70, spindle guage P69, vertical link guage VW259, arm offset guage VW270a, and the rare one, frame tube guage VW256a, AND, someone who kows how to use them! One such is Jeff Adams, at Speedsport Tuning in Danbury, Ct.
I'm not familiar enough to say SJ. I'm sure Jack or Bruce would have the answer. All I know is on the two cars mentioned earlier each had a bent arm and once replaced the problem was solved.
Nice of you to offer Tom. I'll keep that in mind for myself,
Thank you!
Thanks, Justin. Happy to help. I have P69 too.
Tom
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