JACK RECIEVER

[badsix]

I installed a jack receiver on the passenger side years ago it fit perfect. now i'm ready to install the one on the drivers side. its different, it has flanges top and bottom the one on the other side has them folded over. also it sticks out a little more than an inch further. this makes it out past the body and down about a good 1/2". what can be wrong? tag on the receiver says 356A mines a 58 A. ITS JUST NOT RIGHT could it be for a C ?
THANKS Jay D.

[JTR70]

The receiver with the flanges folded over are later B&C versions.

A and Pre-A versions have the flanges upright. The new spurs are raw and the snouts should be trimmed back flush with the bead weld.

Snout trimmed back flush here to match the originals on my coupe.

Flange profile shaped and snout trimmed to match more closely with the original spur. Upper spur left raw for comparison.

[JOP]

Oups....hit the wrong button...
The later style from came around 1963 and it is just overlap instead of the early version which you have a edge top and bottom when you look at it from the front (square hole).
But you have atleast two early versions of the jack for the 356 and 356A/B
It is much better to upload a picture when you have a question about repair panels....we just love photoes
The following is snapped from WWW..... I forgot the builders name it is just to show a jack version

[JTR70]

Thanks Per! I thought that was your project car...

[JOP]

Justin, nope I havent put jacks on my C yet....

But when I asked Jay to put up a photo I tried to find one of my own but didnt have one and googled and then you beat me to reply on his questions but you got some nice photos
/ Per

[roy mawbey]

Guys,

This thread interests me. My 59 T2 has the original factory jacking points and longitudinals. In the mid 70's I removed all undercoating from the still factory floors. I noticed some small area around the jacking points that I needed to re-weld. Did that and they still operate perfectly.

But they never had flanges top or bottom! I have seen more than a few with flanges and wondered about mine.... Now Per you put on a photo from the website you can't remember and it shows a jacking point exactly like mine!! I have looked for a photo but can't find one.

Now, I have full service records going back to when the car was only a few years old no mention of replacement but a comment by AFN on service visit around 1965 to say oner of the jacking points was reinforced.

So did T2 have non flanged versions from the factory as I believe? Its the same with the rear torsion bar support area.The caps on the bottom where guys that don't know always trolley jack from ( instead of the torsion bar outrigger cover) can do that because the area is flat. Later cars had flanging.

Interesting!!!!

Roy

[tperazzo]

Is it correct or customary to leave the lower edge open as a drain?

I'm talking about the edge that is parallel to the longitudinals and on the bottom of the car. Or the edge closest to the floor pans.

I left that seam open with a small convex curve so water can pour out.

My originals were too far gone, but I've seen some cars done this way on Willhoits site and assumed it was original???? Thoughts?

[badsix]

thanks guys, I did a little trimming and cut the square tube off flush with the weld. IT fits NICE now. the benefits of a GOOD Porsche 356 site. and yes I think you defiantly need to leave the bottom open to drain. if not its going to collect dirt and moisture the basics for rust.
THANKS Jay D.

[JOP]

Roy,
its Jon Binghams 356 C from Colorado.
Its a normal C version of a jack.....but strange that you have one as early as T2...... Test/prototype mabe
You should have a flat area and not an impression as this is later found on the T5.
Enclosed picture from a C.
/ Per

[roy mawbey]

Thanks Per for that info, I somehow thought the B and C jacking points all had the flanges top and bottom. I did have a C but a previous owner who had new longitunals fitted never welded on the jacking points

Strange one, as the longs are original on mine and no way would anyone have got rusty jacking points off them to weld on new ones. Mind you nearly every 356 over here had those longs and j/points changed after about 10 years normal use. ( Unless the owner was so careful with rust prevention.)

Thanks for the rear torsion bar photo!

Roy

[bbspdstr]

Shown is an original floor of a late '63 T-6 B (C-2) Reutter build and all it's parts including what I'd call an anomaly, a jack receiver with the early pinch-weld. Nasty in it's present state but to be repaired.

After scraping and chipping, another detail was noticed that I cannot explain. One longitudinal's fore/aft curve on both sides are 2 round shapes, flat and shallow, standing out from that 'high crown' curve! The rear is pressed from inside-out, the forward one on the left side has some weld, but that area was badly scraped and jammed up in it's past, so the welding could be from that being snagged and torn.



I have been involved with more "floor jobs" than I can count, but only a few of a T-6 Carrera and maybe that is a detail overlooked in the past (last done by me in the early '90s) that is unique to a C-2?????

As for the jack spur being "unusual" I would cast that (and Roy's overlapped? original on an A) as being from the body-builders for Porsche using whatever was available if the "correct" part was not immediately at hand and those were pre-attached to a longitudinal when that was a spare part. Yes, "Made by Hand" again.

Yes, the lower end facing the floor was left open. Yes, they were most often crushed by a jacking device and no, the extended ridge from the rear suspension pictured by Per without the standard jack receivers is a "custom" design.....which will also likely be crushed.

Isn't it ironic that Porsche changed the rear sheet metal under the rear suspension from the flat design to the pinch-welded flange design about the same time as the opposite change was made on the jack receivers?

So many questions...so few accurate answers...

-Bruce

[roy mawbey]

Bruce,
You make very interesting comments indeed about the jacking points and the longitudinals. Those small diameter areas on the original longitudinal are strange. I wonder why they are there myself? When they coated them with the underbody sealant I doubt you would have noticed them. I wonder if they had thoughts of a drain being inserted somehow there? but never did?
Do you think Porsche agents in wet countries advised the factory of just how many longitudinals were rusting away? Some of the cars by the T6 were over 14 years old. The majority of longitudinals I saw on 356 cars in the mid to late sixties over here were in dire shape. Problem was of course the front and rear closing panels to the longs split though rust and allowed the water in do the damage.

Your jack point info is also I am sure correct. People were no doubt putting trolley jacks under the j/point and even if there was a pinch weld it probably collapsed it against the outer shape. I know from receipts they re-inforced my jacking points. I wonder if the rust was showing on a pinched area amd that they hammered it flat on the bottom and re-welded it.? The tops though have no pinched area.

At least I can be sure the flat area under the rear torsion bar connection was flat to start with the T2.

Roy

[bbspdstr]

Here is a better picture of the round shape in the longitudinal AND the almost finished repair of the original jack spur.

Doing what we can while waiting in the queue for the media blaster.

At least I had an original as a model:



-Bruce

[tperazzo]

Looks good Bruce!

Your pictures show the open section at the back of the jack spur I was talking about earlier in this thread.

I see many replacements that are hammered flat and welded to the longitudinal. Hmmm, I think the space is factory. No????

[bbspdstr]

I see many replacements that are hammered flat and welded to the longitudinal. Hmmm, I think the space is factory. No????

Yes, the space is to drain. Weld it closed and the opposite effect expedites Mother Nature's desire to return the longitudinal and the receiver to it's basic elements.

The design was strong enough on the sides under tension and the top sheetmetal bracing the stout tube allows the compression of the jacking. It was the best answer for a unibody vehicle back then.

-Bruce