Don't forget to check your steering shaft coupler!

[JTR70]

An important thread topic idea by Bruce Baker concerning an easily over looked but critical link in the chain in the ability to control your car!

As Bruce said earlier out of sight and out of mind until the day it fails. Hopefully not at highway speeds.
Below are some photos and details of various insulator couplers found on both VW and 356.

I could only find one ply of it but here is a very early cloth based joint. Several would be plied together creating the thickness of a standard coupler. This early style was referred to as the "rag-joint"

Common VW rubber joint found on 356AT1. Rubber is of course petrified but the nylon cord in center is reassuring.

Another original VW coupler but without signs of nylon reinforcement.


Early Assembled original with standard VW coupler.

Contemporary VW offering. Thinner and no signs of nylon. I think I would be very cautious about installing this one!

[JTR70]

Plastic coupler found on a later ZF steering box originating from a 356C.

Not sure this is original or if this is a stand in of some sort. Unfortunately I'm not well versed in 1960-65 T5 and T6. Any shots and info would be appreciated! Thanks! Justin

[bbspdstr]

Just an idea about overlooked safety items and the steering coupler came to mind first. Here is a picture of a later thinner coupler and hardware, including a grounding strap for electrical continuity, and a later coupling from a C showing the degrading rubber and aluminum bond
Also following is an illustration from the C supplement of the parts book showing the various parts which included an extension for the steering wheel to move rearward toward the driver

Various combinations can substitute for the thicker coupling, but unlike Justin's plastic replacement, the idea is to allow some movement in that joint, some flex, so the alignment of the steering box and the steering shaft is not as critical;

[JTR70]

Thanks for clearing that up Bruce. I didn't think it was original but I wasn't 100% sure either. The "flex" needed to avoid critical alignment was the example of course that made sense. Slick twin puck set-up you built there! I also see a dual circuit master cylinder lurking under there as well. Is the master cylinder a 901 version? It looks clean! The twin brass T-junctions are originally the one found on the rear correct? I Like the way the brake-light switch has been moved to work off of one.
Justin

[Jim Neil]

Got my first 356 5-6 years ago (after sadly passing on what could have been my first 40 years earlier). One of the first things I fixed was a deteriorated shift coupler - important safety item! If you haven't checked yours lately, do it!

[bbspdstr]

"Is the master cylinder a 901 version? It looks clean! The twin brass T-junctions are originally the one found on the rear correct? I Like the way the brake-light switch has been moved to work off of one."

Yep, the car is a disc brake SC. The early 911 m/c ('78>) is pricey, but it too should be opened up right out of the box and checked for 'shelf wear' as all too many have been found to have dried/coagulated assembly lube that distorts the internal rubber piston seal and causes an internal leak that gives a weak pedal.

Learned that one the hard way in the late '70s with a 'brand new' Ate box from the old parts house, Electrodyne. Returned it and got another just like it...duh! Finally figured it out. Just got the same thing in 2013 in a sharp-looking fresh box from Porsche.

That can happen in ANY master cylinder, slave cylinder, so I adhere to my shop motto; "assume NOTHING."

"Trust, but verify." A whole lot easier on the bench BEFORE installation.....jus' sayin'.

The brass T fittings are great for special tasks, like secure mounting for a brake light switch and just any plumbing idiosyncrasy, I have a few from back when I would save them from...remember these?....'parts cars.' They can still be found new, however.

Thanks, Justin, for all you do for Porschephiles.

-Bruce

[Impi]

Hi those square looking ones were OEM on the Vanagon and are very strong I have been using them exclusively on my VWs type three and type one. I haven't had one failure.
Regards
Armand

[JTR70]

Thanks for the tips Bruce! Absolutely right; take none of it for granted even straight out of the box!

Thank you for identifying that semi-square puck Armand. I never would have guessed it for a Vanagon and for being more durable than it looks. Learned something new!

Here's the replacement puck I'm using in my car. Back in '88 my buddy was in process of restoring a '55 chevy truck and was in need of new rubber insulator pads for the cab and bed. His father worked at up at the local mine and brought a remnant section of conveyor belt home. Turned out it was the perfect thickness for a new puck that I needed for my car. Not to mention it is probably the most superior material I could have found to do the job and as you can see its double nylon layered. When you think about it these belts are designed to bring tons of rock down from the mine so you know this has to be very tough, durable material. Definitely over engineered for what I'm going to be asking it to do.
BTW:Note the large original copper contact strap, Bruce said he installs two just as a fail-safe. Like that idea and Wished I had another one...

Installed on my upgrade ZF box and just as soft and supple as the day I cut it out 26 years ago has been that long already.

[JTR70]

Went ahead and bought that really nice fail-safe steering coupler kit from Precision Matters.

Kit comes complete with all hardware and instructions for both early and later (B&C) applications. The existing coupler ends of course are reused.

Rubber insulators allow the flex of the old design but the alloy housing prevents a complete connection failure.


Assembly complete and ready to install. Tired old original for comparison.

[Jbrooks]

I just bought a precision matters coupler, it's highly recommended I am including these on all of our restorations,

[JTR70]

Definitely the way to go John...