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64 C ride height

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  • 64 C ride height

    Driving around checking ride height I am finding the lower limiting factor is the right ti rod hitting the fuel line / outlet at the fuel cock.

    The ride height attitude in the picture below has the ti rod rubbing to the point that it would rub thu the fuel line and or damage the fuel cock.

    Actually I would prefer to run the car closer to level (less nose down) and i have raised the front since this photo - eliminating the problem.

    Now that I have a more level attitude I would like to lower the whole car a little.

    I can raise the fuel tank a little (it might be slightly lower than when it left the factory). I could rotate the steering box around the torsion bar tube a little (modifying the dowel pin hole). Or I could bend the steering arms down a little.

    My point is, with some of the C cars i see lowered in pictures, I am wondering how close the ti rod is to the fuel cock outlet. I am not talking about drop spindles here. I am referencing all stock parts.

    Anyone ever look at this? To check the clearance I removed the steering box inspection cover in the trunk and used a mirror and flashlight.

    The wheels and tires shown on the car are some junk ones for rolling the car around but they 15" wheels.

    Click image for larger version

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    Ashley Page

  • #2
    Hey Ashely,

    Interesting clearance issue. I forgot that Porsche moved the pet-cock from the interior of the foot well to the outside of it with the introduction of the T6 (1962-on). I of course have no experience lowering these later cars but I would imagine the easiest fix would be the elimination of this valve in favor of a 90 or 45 degree fitting.

    Click image for larger version

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    While this car sits nice I don't believe its been lowered too drastically.
    Justin Rio

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    • #3
      Originally posted by JTR70" post=9274


      While this car sits nice I don't believe its been lowered too drastically.
      Justin,

      Although I have not seen that exact picture it is a good example of the height and attitude I am after.

      Sure would like to pop his trunk, pull the inspection panel and have a look at the petcock.

      As it is I cannot run that low.

      There is one monkey in the woodpile with my set up. I have new Bilstein shocks that I had them put together for me. The bilstein east coast place is next door to my shop.

      Of course now they have moved the rebuilding to the other coast so I can't go next door and have the pressure lowered in my shocks.

      All that pointing to I think my static ride height might be higher than the dynamic.

      I think it's time for some foam rub blocks to see how close things get driving down the road.

      Thanks
      Ashley
      Attached Files
      Ashley Page

      Comment


      • #4
        Ashely, this might be a silly suggestion but just throwing ideas out; what about spacing for fuel tank upward a few MM's to give the clearance your after? I'm sure the filler neck will be a limiting factor. yes, its all about getting the right stance and attitude! Justin
        Justin Rio

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by JTR70" post=9278
          Ashely, this might be a silly suggestion but just throwing ideas out; what about spacing for fuel tank upward a few MM's to give the clearance your after? I'm sure the filler neck will be a limiting factor. yes, its all about getting the right stance and attitude! Justin
          Yes, that was what I thought would be the easiest way to gain a few mm's. I put the tank in using a strip of silicone foam and it very well could be lower than the stock location.
          That is another comparison I would like to make.
          My filler neck location looks pretty good but there is probably some room to move it up.
          Ashley Page

          Comment


          • #6
            Also I cut the bottom out of the tank to restore it. The refit was very good with only the kerf of the thin cut off wheel for a gap. But in the process of pressure testing the tank it could have swelled out.

            A little here and there and all of a sudden clearance disappears!
            Ashley Page

            Comment


            • #7
              Problem solved!!!

              A friend in FL saw a pic I had posted in answer to a post on the registry forum of the fuel clock in my car. Turns out the T6 version has the outlet pipe 90* to the selector shaft.

              I out smarted myself by cleaning up my original valve and putting it away; then buying another used one to rebuild and put in the car. Did not compare them and did not suspect a difference.

              Live and learn!

              Thanks

              Ashley
              Ashley Page

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              • #8
                Great news! I like it when its easy! Justin
                Justin Rio

                Comment


                • #9
                  Damn, I hate when work gets in the way of fun. Here is what I was trying to post when I had to help a worker in the shop. Imagine!

                  Hi Ashley,

                  I guess I need to see more than the Registry 'stuff' and the 'inspirational' stuff and be aware of what else is here on Justin's great site.

                  Click image for larger version

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                  I have lowered a T-6 (or 'a few') to the bottom of the adjustment in the front and not noticed that clearance issue....

                  I align the 4 corners on tables and look at all I can while under those during that process but never saw anything but 'close' tolerances and heard no noise during steering/driving afterward.

                  May I ask which fuel valve is on your tank? Does the outlet exit at 90* and aim up a few degrees? (T-6) If an earlier valve is installed, the exit is straight ahead from the control rod and yep, there would be a serious interference. Otherwise, from those here I checked, there is no tie-rod too-closeness that could happen, up and down, lock-to-lock......

                  So, we need to step up the participation here on things like this. Your friend 'over there' wish to participate 'over here'? I look at the Registry site occasionally (haven't posted there, I think, since the last election), but I'm always happy to try to help a 356er as they would me!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    [quote="bbspdstr" post=9320]Damn, I hate when work gets in the way of fun. Here is what I was trying to post when I had to help a worker in the shop. Imagine!

                    Hi Ashley,

                    I guess I need to see more than the Registry 'stuff' and the 'inspirational' stuff and be aware of what else is here on Justin's great site.



                    I have lowered a T-6 (or 'a few') to the bottom of the adjustment in the front and not noticed that clearance issue....

                    I align the 4 corners on tables and look at all I can while under those during that process but never saw anything but 'close' tolerances and heard no noise during steering/driving afterward.

                    May I ask which fuel valve is on your tank? Does the outlet exit at 90* and aim up a few degrees? (T-6) If an earlier valve is installed, the exit is straight ahead from the control rod and yep, there would be a serious interference. Otherwise, from those here I checked, there is no tie-rod too-closeness that could happen, up and down, lock-to-lock......

                    So, we need to step up the participation here on things like this. Your friend 'over there' wish to participate 'over here'? I look at the Registry site occasionally (haven't posted there, I think, since the last election), but I'm always happy to try to help a 356er as they would me!

                    Hi Bruce,

                    Thanks for the reply.
                    This site is fantastic! Justin's never ending energy shows throughout the site!

                    I think more and more folks will be showing up here. If you enjoy these cars then this is simply too good to pass up!

                    Something you may like hearing - I drove in the rain and there were no leaks and the patented 'Baker $ bill seal test' (actually it takes 50 $ bills unless you want to open and close the trunk 50 times!) yielded a very quite car and a dry trunk! Plus, you get some air flow thru the vents due to the sealed trunk I am thinking.

                    With the door gaskets I find that a single bill works best.

                    It's the only job on a 356 where you could say it takes $50 to get it done and then you get the entire $50 back.

                    Thanks!

                    Ashley
                    Attached Files
                    Ashley Page

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Thank you Bruce and Ashely! Your participation keeps things interesting.
                      Thank you again! Justin
                      Justin Rio

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