T-1 Paint

[gkw]

I am quite a ways off from painting but was wondering if to paint with doors on or off the car. Aquamarine met. might be hard to match at two different sprays.
Solid colors would be no problem. Porsche has no easy break line in
the door jams.
Just looking for some different opinions.
Also because of mu spray area there is not enough room to spray the doors off the car at the same time. Using base clear urethane.
Thank you, Gordon

[bbspdstr]

Opinion? FWIW;
No shortcut in base/clear metallics, as they require nearly 2 "paintjobs" to get right.
Prep all primer for paint, together.


Disassemble.
"Cut in" jambs, dash and lid openings.
Move to parts, "cut in" edges, ends and undersides.
("Cut in" is a full spray but in limited areas, as above.)
Assemble when cured.
Sand and prep for whole outer spray. Block across gaps and clean all.
"Back-tape" at edges, masking previously painted areas to protect thoroughly.
"Skirt" or otherwise mask underside.
With gaps blocked by a special round foam filler masking off a roll, that gives a "soft" blend at edges, clean and paint whole exterior.
------
I had a sub years ago that gave back a silver Speedster with varying metallic and shades of silver, panel-to-panel. I asked why he did not do as I had instructed and he shot back....."look, I painted the whole thing at the same time!" and produced pictures. Yes, in a big new downdraft, the shell was in the middle on a dolly and the doors, lids and ancillary parts were hung and laid out around the booth and TECHNICALLY "painted all at the same time," but not where the metallic kept flowing from the same pass at the same angle and the same distance, creating an unintelligible blend.

This is a better example of "skirting" and of silver. Other silver cars done in the suggested method;



But the black Speedster came out well from the same approach;





-Bruce

[JR]

Gordon,
When my car was painted the doors were removed.


This pic shows the body with the doors off.


It was sanded, buffed, then glaized and the doors were put back on.


The door gaps were then finalized.
It was not a quick process.
Good luck!
Dick

[JTR70]

Good post Gordon and a great question for us coupe guys.

Thanks for the confirmation Bruce. That Black speedster looks exceptionally nice! I was thinking of doing the exact same proceedure. I was going to cut the jambs and all inner panel surfaces first. Then back tape and feather it on the edges to make the break. Skirt it and shoot the body with its panels on. I know exactly what you mean when shooting metalics; the color and flake patterns all have to flow. As you know even when you do spot repairs you can't end the job right at a gap it just won't look the same. You have to blend it and fade it off so the eye doesn't catch it. BTW once I finish blocking the hood I was going paint the troughs, mount the rubber and mount that hood on permanent before final paint. Hoods with mounted hinges scare me due to the risk of cowl damage during the install. it will be more taping but worth it! The biggest dilema I have and its a coupe thing for both Gordon and I is;(which was one of his original questions) where do we make the break at the door jamb, Quarter window opening/gutter transition. It all sort of over laps and its a tough one.

This frame opening is proving to be a real brain teaser on where I can make the break cleanly.

The natural break is at the apex of the gutter but as it makes its down to this corner I'm not sure whare to cleanly endit and begin the outer paint job.

Then if I cut the jambs first where do I cleanly stop or start it at the B pillar. Its all so smooth an flowing with no real edge. I don't think I want to make the break at the leading quarter window edge. I won't be able to pull that off cleanly.

Can't really end it at the top of the B pillar either; it just washes out into face of the gutter. I hope this is making sense.
Also I don't have shots but the A pillar is almost the same dilema.

Maybe I should shoot it with the body and make my fade/break in door jamb?? What's been your experience Bruce? BTW: Like Gordon I'll using a 2 stage.

Your car looks fantastic Dick! The best and cleanest way would be to paint the car apart like your roadster. Your guys pulled it off because they were shooting a solid pigment. Like Gordon said When you add metalics into the mix it can get tricky to make it all look even and uniform. Just like Bruces example above with the guy shooting silver with everything in the same booth but seperately. The patterns in the flake did not flow from panel to panel and threw the pattern and the color off just enough to ruin the final result.
Justin

[gkw]

Thanks Bruce, Dick, and Justin.
Painting with heavy metallic is always tough for me but this information will really help. Thanks again, Gordon

[roy mawbey]

Really good thread!! The metallic spray and the need to keep the gun flowing all across at the same time I had never thought of. So many things you need to know. Thosen silver speedster's and Dicks lovely red car. Enjoyed looking.

Roy