T2 undercoating

[Bob Moglia]

Getting back to work after a 6 week camper van trip out west.
I’m shooting black Wurth bodyschutz, but where does it go?
Certainly the floor pan and under rockers.
I saw evidence of overspray on nose and tail, so I assume battery box and underside of engine support.
Obviously inside wheelwells, but what about headlight bucket?
I assume not in the upper engine compartment.
What about lower engine compartment and underside of trunk floor.
Advice appreciated!

[Jbrooks]

Bob

I usually do all the sheetmetal under the car. I mask off the suspension parts and things not to be coated with aluminum foil on an assembled car. Outside of the headlight buckets only. I start by putting 3M seam sealer tar strips into all the seams and pinch welds. Like fender and read bulkhead. Push it in with a paint stir stick. Get a good bead and press it in to the cracks and crevices. Then 3M 008840 in a calking tube, flex seam sealer over all the joints, do all seams and welded areas. After I am sure it’s all plugged up and no visible cracks, holes or water entry points I spray the Schatz. I use wurth schatz also. You can do the battery box floor, I like the 3M urethane self leveling clear under the battery and holder, then a layer of sound deadening tar pads and seam sealer around that and 1-2” up the wall, and paint to match the inner fenders in the trunk
Don’t schatz over the sound deadening around the Engine and transmission , paint that
I use it basically schatz as an overcoat. I will paint the inside trunk, usually with a roller and brush unless it’s was damaged. If so inside it’s in touch up spots before painting. I dab it with a dry sponge to match the original texture, before paint. Tom Prazzo at “garage time” on you tube has a good video doing a 911.

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLO2EVK95VV2S3bxN-v3sx3SvJL9FgeZII

Get a roll of thin 2-3mil plastic sheet and cover every you don’t want the schatz on. Floors, walls, painted parts of the car, small children it’s good stuff but messy wear throw away clothes or a tyvex suite and gloves. It’s not too hard, the higher you raise the car the easier it is . Remove the wheels, wrap the brakes etc with the foil, you can’t use too much. Then it’s only a couple days. Just thing that this is going to last 25 years, do it the best you can.

[Bob Moglia]

Great answer, one specific question for clarification: re the area circled in white. So no undercoat here prior to placing the sound deadening pads?
Do you also paint over the schutz? Seems unnecessary.
Thanks!

[JTR70]

Bob, they sprayed that stuff everywhere. This seat pan section answers your question. It was fully coated in tar, body color overspray, then another application of tar to adhere the jute.

[Bob Moglia]

Undercoating mostly done,
Gotta finish the lead work before final touch up undercoat of wheel well.
Thanks Justin.

[roy mawbey]

That looks a great job Bob, looks well protected. Now be honest, when its all finished and looking just as you want it will you ignore black rain clouds in the sky or will you think maybe tomorrow we will have sun? I had mine looking much the same by the late 70's and I have to say after all that work laying on my back, as I had no rotisserie , I found it difficult after so much welding and leading and sealing to deliberately drive it out of the garage in rain. Well over 40 years on and I have not had a problem that I can see. I drive it maybe twice a week and just say looks okay for a drive! Maybe I am a bit crazy being pedantic over rain but I have seen in 60 years so many rusty 356 cars in the UK ! That's a different form of rotisserie to others I have seen. Gives you a lot of room underneath to work. I guess for very rusty cars it might flex in the middle a bit or you would have to brace the internal of the car?

Either way its very nice sealing job Bob.

Roy

[Jbrooks]

Bob

That looks superb, I did not realize se you had it on a rotisserie.

I use a heat gun to warm up the Schatz in area where the contact adhesive will go before I apply the Jute. a little heat helps the adhesive skim over and stick on the body side. If the body bond is good, the Naphtha in the jute pad contact adhesive from the outer layer of the glue will thin the body side and make a tight bond. Also a local guy uses 20 pound sand bags to weight down the jute and carpet sections overnight to help get a good bond. You can flip the car over to do the trans area. He used the box store play sand in cloth tubes. He places it on the areas where the jute lays, it does better than a roller in thick pads, The sand conforms to the bends and folds and applies pressure while the adhesive cures. works very well. This under car area you want to insure you have a good bond, its hard to see later.

[Bob Moglia]

Thanks Roy, I believe I will be driving this, even in the rain!
I did all my structural metal work on a rigid dolly, no reinforcements required.
I switched to this structure to attach the rockers.
You can see my restoration on the 356 registry:
“Bobs 356A project“.
To call it a rotisserie is very generous, two miss matched engine stands that I had already used when I restored a 72 911 E. Just some quick modification to fit the 356.
I live in rural upstate NY, I’m not afraid of rain, it’s the roaming wild deer that will get you in trouble!

[Bob Moglia]

JB, thanks for the tip, unfortunately I cannot fully flip the car due to fender clearance. But I appreciate the concept and will work something similar out.