Motorcycle to engine jack up date

[Jbrooks]

The Jack Build is on page 31 back in "tools and products" section, I thought this was posting there.

Yanked a motor today with the modified Jack. Wow. Jacked it up, adjusted the table to match the engine angle. Took a little up pressure in the jack, removed the bolts, and it slid right out, I mean right out. All four casters swivel so it moves in any direction very easily. Everyone was amazed at how well this worked
I


Have not put it back yet but if it goes that easy, yahoo





If I do another one, I will extend it another 4". The current one is easy out, but total hight was just an inch short of the engine stand, so I still had to pick up the engine to slide it into the stand.

[Don C]

You're not taking Tom's motor out again are you?
Say "HI" to Tom from Don in NJ.

[Phil Planck]

John

Can you provide more details of the tilt feature?

[Jbrooks]

Don

Yes it's back out, it has a couple thousand miles on it. Easier to work on out of the car. There is a minor interference with the oil filter and the GPD muffler. We needed to put a depression or dent in the new beautiful SS muffler.

[Jbrooks]

Phil

The table top is pinned at the front corners so it hinges. There is a hand wheel in the bottom aft support that allow you to raise the back of the table to match the inclination of the car when jacked up. We have also cut out the center of the table for the sump cover, it's now below the table top.



The threaded rod and hand wheel can be seen in the above photo

This photo shows full nose down tilt, about 35 degrees.

The tilt allows you to match the car angle when the back is raised. That allows you to clear the heater box coming out, and eliminated the push forward on the fan shroud to mate the trans going back in.

http://www.abcgt.com/forum/14-356-Restoration-Projects/12171-tools--products-for-restorations.html?limit=6&start=180

[Jack Staggs]

These flanges were sometimes used as spacers for muffler/heater box clearance on the "improved" heater system as factory fit.
https://www.stoddard.com/36954103.html.html

[Jbrooks]

Jack
I looked at that, but the pipes from cyl 2&4 go over the muffler and enter fron the rear. They are very close to that rear of the body. You can't remove the engine with this muffler installed for the clearence to the body It only had 0.020 clearence between the oil filter and the muffler. The spacer would clear, but the dent was easier, and I got more clearence, a 3x1x8 flat bar did the trick. Centered about 1/2" above the weld, pressed in around 3/8".

[neilbardsley]

Don

Yes it's back out, it has a couple thousand miles on it. Easier to work on out of the car. There is a minor interference with the oil filter and the GPD muffler. We needed to put a depression or dent in the new beautiful SS muffler.

Without a heat screen for the filter aren't you just warning the oil up from the exhaust?

[Jbrooks]

Heat shield removed for clarity. It was touching and pressed into the muffler before.

[Jbrooks]

Reassembled and started up the motor with the muffler today. We'll run and tune on the stand tomorrow.
Just a little short for the yoke to fit this stand, make yours 11" longer


But it fits the run in bench just fine.

here is the sump relief, also need a relief for the drain plug and bottom tab

Ready for a tune up and reinstall

And plenty of clearence with the filter heat shield installed now.

[Jack Staggs]

So, the muffler has to be removed to R&R the engine. I get that, as some Abarth exhausts require removal as well for clearance. I can't help but think that the J tubes from cyl 1&3 fit in the muffler by 1 1/2" or so. This requires the muffler to be slid rearward by that dimension for its removal with the engine fully mounted. That most certainly would allow for a mere 1/4" spacer to fit on cyl 2&4? Am I missing something?

[Jbrooks]

Jack
The spacers probably would work, I have a couple from building the headers, but we used the copper nuts and there was only 3-4 threads left on the studs with thicker gaskets. I did not want to change the studs, the dent method worked out ok. I don't like to modify new stuff, but Tom is headed to the east coast holiday next week. Time is getting short.
See you at rennsport.

[Jbrooks]

Well it went in easier than it came out. The tilt table is super, you can lean over hold the fan schroud, pump it with your foot raise and push in at once. Even left the carbs on, went right in.
The car is raised up as high as we can get it, and probably 3-4 clicks on the Jack stands higher than it needed to be to get the engine under the car.


Sits flat on the table, pitch nose down as you go up. Easy easy.

[Don C]

Nice!