Brake Shoe relining

[Merv]

On my '62 Coupe, the brake shoe lining is reportedly original and its pretty hard, although the pedal is firm and car stops straight and reasonably well. I have had all the drums off and they are in good condition and well within the required measurements. As I am in Australia and freight cost is a real issue for ordering a full set of new shoes from a US source, I approached a local brake shop that does drum brake relining on classic cars. The assure me that they can reline my existing 'shoes' and radius them to suit the wheel matching drums. The cost is only $50 a wheel and that seems more than reasonable for the job. They would be softer than the rather glazed originals, and that may be a good thing for the drums and the braking.

Any thoughts or experience that can be shared on this process?

[bbspdstr]

Merv,

Most anyone would like to have your situation of good original drums and merely glazed original shoes!

Would the reliner do the drums or just the shoes and attach those new linings by bonding or riveting? How much "softer" would the new linings be? Your originals are 'arced' or radius-ed to the drum now and may be fine with just knocking off the glazed surface.

The originals did often last an amazing amount of time and if the drum and shoes linings are in specification, why not go for another 65 years!?

However.........
The biggest problem is NOT the shoes, it's eventual bi-metal corrosion between the aluminum drum and it's cast iron lining. It got started to one degree or another over 50 years ago. It's inherent in that design. It is a matter of not if but when that will spoil the aged originality of both by raising "hot spots" or swelling, cracking and/or crazing and eventually an eruption that will cause an out-of-round situation where cutting may be a temporary fix, but that will take away a lot of drum lining in the process.

I recommend planning for that by collecting better or worse drums and having those which are already unusable (cheaper) or yours done (while you use-up better found drums) later on.

There has been much written here, there and everywhere about this topic and perhaps someone not as lazy as I am will post a link. (Phil?)

In the meantime, as said, I'd just sand the glaze off the original shoes, inspect, and check every other component (cylinders, springs, keepers, etc) and run them as long as possible. Those few companies who reline the drums can also do the shoes and arc those for a perfect interface. That process is not inexpensive, but you start the clock over for perhaps past our lifetimes. (I would be 132, older than perhaps Al Zim is now! [an old Registry tease of good ol' Al])

If the front drums get dangerous first, which is usual, an inexpensive VW-ish wide bolt pattern disc brake set is an easy swap. You use the same wheels and have the same appearance.

Please remember the saying I heard a long time ago and use all the time now: "If it can't stop, it shouldn't go."

Good luck,
Bruce

[Merv]

Thanks Bruce. The rear linings seem within spec but after cleaning and sanding/deglazing the front shoes, they are indeed too thin (less than half of the 7mm recommended). The shop that does the relining does bonded not riveted replacements on the original shoes. I think I may do the front only at this stage and give the shop the drums as well, to arc/shape the new shoes. The drums show no corrosion, cracking, lifting or scoring.

Does that sound like a plan?

Merv

[bbspdstr]

A good plan.

Since the front brakes do much more work than the rears, yes, the relining could be for front only, but mixing linings may not be such a good idea....so matching all 4 drums with new linings would be my own recommendation. Yes, best to arc each pair of shoes to each drum and keep track of which two shoes go in which drum for when you reassemble.

You are very lucky to have good drums...still. I would "skim cut" if needed, but if measured as truly round, I would just sand to de-glaze those as well and take no more metal away than absolutely necessary!

Bruce

[Merv]

Thanks again Bruce. I have lightly sanded the two front drums and prepared the matching shoes for relining. I have engraved each brake piece so it goes back in the position on the matching drum/wheel. I will look again at the rears in a couple of days. Will also change the front bearings while I am at it.

[Merv]

All done. New medium-hard linings were 7.3mm (old ones were 3.0mm) with adjusters backed right off, initially. Just took the shine off the metal drums all round and fitted new springs and high temp grease on the plates behind the shoes. Rear linings were within spec but I cleaned and also radiused them to properly match the drums. Adjusted and then drove and then adjusted again after checking drum temps. New wheel bearings as well. Huge difference in braking performance. Very pleased with reduced pedal pressure and straight effective braking. Drums rule!

[bbspdstr]

New drum brakes worked just fine. Make 'em like new and it's like 50 or 60 years hadn't gone by! (I hate to always follow that with "6v systems, as well")

Glad you got it done successfully and without the too often usual 'drama.'

Look on Youtube.com for "Heidi and Franny's Garage" and see if they have posted their drum brake service tutorial video yet.

-Bruce

[Merv]

Ha. I find if I do the 'research' and then get the sequence and preparation right, it usually works out well. These drum brakes are certainly better than my old MG TF brakes.

There is probably a possible new line in T-Shirts "Drums Rule" and "6V Charges Best", but why upset people?