tools & products for restorations

[Rimcanyon]

Here is a picture of one of the indicator holders I made for measuring valve to guide clearance.



You can see it in action with a couple closeups in this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=utnfM18stC4

[Jbrooks]

Dave

Nice tool, your a you tube star now, i was the second subscriber... The link has a "/edit" at the end of the link so its broken, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=utnfM18stC4

[Rimcanyon]

Dave

Nice tool, your a you tube star now, i was the second subscriber... The link has a "/edit" at the end of the link so its broken, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=utnfM18stC4

Thanks John, not a utube star, more of a utube old fart! But I wanted to make one for each of the steps in head rebuilding. Next one will be on using a Hall-Toledo EJ valve seat grinder.

[Jbrooks]

Dave

post some close up detailed photos of the tool. Three views if possible. A good detailed head rebuild is a good thing. Probably less than 20 of us left that know how to do the correctly.

[Rimcanyon]

John, I made two indicator holders, the first one is still a work in progress. It needs some refinements to keep it stable. I am thinking of boring it in three places around the periphery of the round base, threading those for setscrews and inserting a ball and spring to keep the indicator snug. The one with the Federal indicator has a dovetail rack mount so it is easy to adjust (the rack gear is rotated by an allen wrench from the side), and the thick base gives it something to rest on, so it is quite stable.

[Rimcanyon]

Here are some other indicator holders I made for 356 work:

This one is for checking cam timing. It is used with a case assembled with crankshaft, cam and lifters (also flywheel and degree front pulley). It fits in the pushrod tube bore. It has an eccentric so that it can be centered over the end of the lifter (which is off-center by design). The small brass disc fits in the end of the lifter.





This one is for checking TDC before the rods go on (bare crankshaft).

[Rimcanyon]

What is the best product for sealing and filling the gaps at the bottom corners of a roadster/convertible D windshield (where the top and bottom gaskets meet, or are supposed to meet)? I was thinking of using this CR Laurence product:

[Jbrooks]

I just picked up a box of LED shop lights form Amazon. a little over $100.00 for 10 each, I normally don't post thinks like this but I could not believe how bright these are, working with florescent for years, these are far better and easy to install . Doing restorations you cant have enough light. You can string 6 off the same plug, easy flush installation.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YLQRJSQ?ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details&th=1

[Jbrooks]

I came across this guy just across the border in Canada, I am going to go up and visit, but this Laser Cleaning Process looks very promising. here is a YouTube of him testing a new machine Feb 12 2024.

https://youtu.be/FIU3IUbD0dQ?si=NfWSKHephLT8Mpob

your thoughts they are about $5K but will remove paint, powder, rust, grease etc. Maybe easier than sand blasting. Considering one for the Home Shop..

[JTR70]

Sci-Fi grade piece of equipment. I haven't been mesmerized like that since I first watched a plasma cutter work back in the late 80's. While 5 grand is a good chunk of change I was thinking more in the 10K range but maybe thats what it was a few years ago? Either way it would quickly pay for itself. Wonder if it changes the molecular structure of the steel? Thanks for posting it John.

[Jbrooks]

JTR

I agree, I looked him up, I thought he was just across the border in Vancouver. Same address but he is in another Provence. Saw my first plasma cutter in the mid 80’s, it was the same eye opener. I was back east testing airplanes at PAX River, went over to see Jim O'Brien, who was the big cheese at SEDDEF for testing. He had a new thing “plasma cutter”, I watched him cut out a flush patch, and a rust hole at the same time. Then tac the patch on the quarter panel in under a minute. I was sold.

I have been looking at several systems to burn the rust off 356’s still need to put my hands on one. In the video he is only running 30% of available power, seems to be fine. I used to work with lasers in the navy, so I understand most of the physics. Since there are several variables, beam width, pulse frequency, beam shape beam sweep, power out it should be fine, with no change to the molecular structure of the metal. You can see some beam tracks when he moves fast, but that’s like welding technique. 30 years ago I would have given anything for a 500 watts laser.

I think in the long run it might be cheaper than sand blasting, or a chemical dip. They are 7-10k each, but we pay that for a couple cars so it could be a wash over a few cars, until someone points it at an airplane, or gets the EPA involved, it could be a game changer.

https://youtu.be/eD5LOSMZrC0?si=iW378srBWCWWe8mU

[JTR70]

It is amazing at the amount of tech that can be purchased as the years roll by. If you ever take delivery of one you'll have to let us know how it worked for you.