Thanks Justin. I took the unstripped bumper in to local PPG paint shop to get color matched. Glad that "little" project is done, after 2 months. The center dent was easy to remove, it was the bondoed up worse dent behind passenger guard that was the time killer.
Back to Foam Car
Phil
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Nope. Only thing I shot was a big buck. I have the equipment, but not the experience. Hope to use it on Foam Car, at least for primer.Leave a comment:
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Wow, can't believe it has been a month. Took the bumper to the painter back then and he has been busy with car/deer accident repairs. Picked it up today:
Painter did a nice job. Got new rubber from IM and installed that along with all the trim:
Painted the brackets and waiting for them to harden before installing.
PhilLeave a comment:
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About ready for paint. Got it pretty smooth and block sanded down.
PhilLeave a comment:
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Used Evercoat metal to metal filler here as the guards will put some pressure on it:
Made a sanding block to get the radius blended into the top flat surface and the front curved surface. Still needs a touch more filler in a couple spots, but finally about finished and ready for paint:
PhilLeave a comment:
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That all sounds just about right Phil. Congratulations on reducing the amount of filler needed yet again.Leave a comment:
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Just when I think I am close this happens. I fit the bumper guards. The undamaged side looks like this:
The damaged side looks like this:
Radius is not tight enough. Marked the area needing work:
Back on the floor with the ball peen just along that one area. Then slapper and various dollys. Finally got it to fit better, not perfect, but the trim rubber will fix this:
I think the whole radius is a hair low, so will have to raise a tad with filler, but at least it won't be 1/4" like before.
PhilLeave a comment:
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This radiused edge is 1/8" low at it's worst. Need to figure a way to raise it up
After sleeping on it, I turned it upside down on the floor and whacked downward best I could with a ball peen hammer. Took about w hours, but finally got that radius up pretty even. Took another 2 hours to smooth it out. About as good as I think I can get it
Got the bracket repaired from removing spot welds and ready to pplug weld back on
PhilLeave a comment:
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Well, the bumper has already been repainted. 1969 was a one year only metallic silver. Took it to local PPG store and they matched as close as they could. As there were many stone chips, rusty scratches on the bottom I decided to strip the whole bumper. Took about 5 hours. I left one area of filler behind the passenger guard as the support bracket on the back side prevents dolly access. Decided to strip that filler off, as paint shop probably wants to use their own filler. Surprise:
These dents worse than the one I started this project on. So, had to remove the inner bracket and got the dent roughed out:
Will do some more hammer/dolly work to get it as smooth as I can, then patch up the bracket where I drilled/ground through all the spot welds and weld it back in.
PhilLeave a comment:
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Thanks for those additional tips John. I have decided to strip the whole bumper, as there are many stone chips and some surface rust along the bottom. Will take a little longer, but while I have it off, might as well do what needs to be done eventually anyway. I have been trying to find a paint match for several years with no luck. 1969 appears to be a one year only paint code. So I left the bumper with the local PPG paint expert and he is going to get a match. I also decided to replace all of the rubber except the original deco inserts which are in good shape. Ordered what I need from International Merc.
Regarding the carriage bolt slots, I "peened" the loose one down and that got them back to same as the good slots. I also bought 10 #10 carriage bolts which are about .004" larger square than the metric ones. This should aid in tightening and removal, plus they are all plated. In the meantime, I can get my stripped bolts replated for the next caretaker.
PhilLeave a comment:
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Be sure to fill and seat the aluminum channel in the deco. I have a clamp with a two forked end. I presses the spot weld remover teeth in to the head to hold the carrage bolt. Put the socket between forks. I filled the rounded damage section of the deco, with a short pice of welding TIG rod to keep them from turning and used a primer on the heads after installed. Heat the deco rubber with a heat gun or hair dryer as you put it back in. It gets flexable at about 140F, I set the bottom first and lead the top by about 2"" as I pressed it back in the grove. I used a nylon trim pry bar to insure the top was completely set, once it cools it's hard to get the bumps or wrinkles out, a little heat goes a long way. Also white cotton Micky Mickey gloves keeps from burning your thumb pressing the rubber trim inLeave a comment:
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